20 reasons to visit Morocco this winter
From boutique retreats in the High Atlas mountains to camel trekking in the Sahara, Jane Dunford and Sarah Turner have scoured the country to find the most exciting new experiences and destinations
1. Casablanca
With its glorious Art Deco buildings, Casablanca deserves to become the Miami of Morocco. Architectural fiends will find much to please them in this port city, from the 1930s Cathedrale Sacre-Coeur to the Boulevard d'Anfa, a palm-lined avenue studded with pavement cafes. The pick of these is the gravity-defying Villa Zevaco, designed by the modernist architect Jean-François Zevaco where cakes come with culture. There's even a boutique hotel option. Jnane Sherazade, just off the Boulevard Victor Hugo is an atmospheric villa that has been turned into a restaurant with eight rooms, with a large garden and its own hammam.
• Jnane Sherazade, £133 per room. 00 212 22 82 17 65; jnanesherazade.com
2. Fez
Ever since BA and Ryanair cancelled their flights, Fez has had no direct air service, forcing visitors to travel via Casablanca. But that is all set to change when no-frills carrier Atlas Blue launches twice-weekly flights from Gatwick on 19 December (atlas-blue.com). The former capital of Morocco and the spiritual and cultural centre of the country, Fez is the oldest of the imperial cities. The labyrinthine heart remains intact, a maze of tiny streets, souks, monuments and traditional dye pits. The old medina (Fes el Bali) is home to palaces, mosques and madrasas. Immerse yourself by staying at Dar Seffarine, a laid-back and sociable guesthouse in a restored 600-year-old building with a gorgeous roof terrace
• Rooms at Dar Seffarine, from £56 a night. Book through i-escape.com
3. Marrakesh
Riad Zaouia, the latest of the Angsana Riads Collection in Marrakesh will open next spring, bringing the total number of riads to eight. Owned by Asia's luxury Banyan Tree Group, the collection marks the company's first foray into Africa. Set in the historic heart of the city, the latest riad will have seven rooms. The riads feature Arabian Nights evenings, held on the atmospheric rooftop of Riad Si Said, with a Moroccan buffet and entertainment from musicians, fire-eaters, snake charmers and belly dancers, from £40, every Saturday (and every Tuesday in high season) - and they're open to non-residents too.
• Riad Zaouia. 00 800 300 200 00; angsana.com
4. Tangier: a city with a new lease of life
Louche, laid-back and a bit seedy, Tangier is undergoing something of a transformation into a chic destination, ideal for people who like their Morocco experiences to still have a little edginess. Once a popular hangout among artists and writers, from Paul Bowles to Allen Ginsberg and Matisse, who loved the raffish air and wild, drug-fuelled parties, the city had fallen out of favour since its Fifties' heyday as travellers headed to Marrakesh, but things look set to change. Best of Morocco (0845 026 4585; morocco-travel.com) is introducing a new overland route to Tangier for 2009, targeting those who prefer not to fly, or those who simply fancy an adventure. There are two possible routes, either by train to Paris and then on to the southern French port of Sète, from where the ferry to Tangier takes 36 hours, or alternatively, you can take the train to Madrid and onto Algeciras, before the 90-minute crossing to Morocco.
Once in Tangier, there are some delightful boutique hotels; Dar Jameel (00 212 39 33 46 80; magicmaroc.com) is a beautifully-converted riad-style property, with eight elegant bedrooms around the traditional central courtyard. Double rooms start at €75 per night, including breakfast. Meanwhile, luxury tour operator Cazenove+Loyd (cazenoveandloyd.com) has added the boutique Hotel Nord-Pinus Tanger to its programme (nord-pinus-tanger.com).
The city itself is smartening up at speed, motivated by a desire to host the 2012 International Exposition. Formerly rubbish-strewn squares are being converted into picturesque gardens, draped in jacaranda and hydrangeas, with fountains and shady corners to sit in, and although there is some concern that Tangier will become as overly-sanitised and developed as Marrakesh, it seems unlikely that the city will change that radically. Visit in late May for the Tangiers Jazz Festival, a five-day programme with regional and international artists. (tanjazz.com) .
Up and coming and coming destinations
5. Chefchaouen
If you want an antidote to the madness of Marrakesh, head for sleepy Chefchaouen (pronounced Chef-sha-wen), a beautiful town nestled in the Rif Mountains, just inland from Tangier (the nearest airport). Blue-painted buildings line the streets, clinging to the steep mountainsides. Wander the winding paths, past natural pools where locals meet to swim, or shop for blankets and wool garments that you won't find anywhere else in the country. Stay in the wonderfully peaceful Casa Hassan, (casahassan.com), two townhouses split across a narrow alleyway which are free of telephones, TVs and the internet, but which boast a fabulous hammam, traditional restaurant and roof terraces with spectacular views.
• The Best of Morocco offers Casa Hassan for four nights from £660, including flights, transfers and half-board. 0845 026 4585; realmorocco.com
6. Taroudant
In the Souss Valley in the High Atlas, Taroudant is a pretty place famous for its pink houses and fortified walls. Known as 'little Marrakesh', its winding streets teem with life on Thursdays and Saturdays when people from the mountains come to town for the bustling Berber market. Riad Dar Zitoune is just outside town, a lovely kasbah-style hotel with bungalows and suites scattered in pretty olive and palm filled gardens. There's a pool and small spa with hammam.
• Simpson Travel has three nights' half-board at Riad Dar Zitoune from £475 with flights. 020 8392 5858; simpsontravel.com
7. Taghazout
This laid-back fishing village, 20km from Agadir, has been a surfing destination since the late 1960s, but news of the quality of its surf breaks has started to spread and, as a result, accommodation options are improving. Surf Berbere is a British-run surf school with accommodation near Hash Point, one of the best point breaks in North Africa; apartments have bathrooms, satellite TV and wi-fi. In January and February guests can swap their wetsuits for skis and head to Oukmedian for a couple of days' skiing, staying at a Berber mountain chalet.
• A week at Surf Berbere, including accommodation, surfing and tuition, but not flights, starts at £400. 020 3286 5431; surfberbere.com
Atlas Mountains
8. Foothills trekking
Head for the hills on Intrepid Travel's new Atlas Mountain Retreat (launching in February 2009), part of its Independent portfolio, designed for those who don't want to travel with a group. On the five-day trip, you'll stay in the Berber village of Ouirgane in the foothills of the High Atlas to sample the Berbers' simple way of life, virtually unchanged for centuries, with farmers tending their orchards and fields, and goatherds watching over their charges in the hills. Spend time exploring the terrain with a local guide on a tailored full-day trek - the district offers everything from easy rambles to challenging hikes. Alternatively, you can enjoy the scenery on horseback. Slow the pace with an invigorating scrub and massage in the local hammam or simply unwind by the pool with a good book. Be sure to indulge in some traditional Moroccan fare such as the deliciously spiced pigeon pastilla or a tasty vegetarian tagine.
• Five days, with accommodation in two- to three-star hotels, costs from £480, including transfers, guided trek and breakfast, excluding flights. 0203 147 7777; intrepidtravel.com
9. Kasbah Tamadot
Sir Richard Branson's retreat in the Atlas mountains, just an hour from Marrakesh, has added six new luxurious Berber tented suites with private plunge pools. Set on a hillside, five minutes from the main property, the tents are decorated in traditional Moroccan style and each has a king-size bed, large bath with mountain views and outdoor dining area. During October guests can stay four nights for the price of three. Set in wonderfully-lush flowering gardens, the complex is a fairytale maze of winding paths, staircases and open courtyards, with 18 rooms and suites marrying traditional and contemporary decor. There are indoor and outdoor pools, tennis courts, a luxurious spa and hammam and dining options include the atmospheric Kanoun restaurant with fireside bar and roof-top terrace for dining under the stars.
A special four-night astronomy package is available on 20 November and is offered by Cadogan Holidays (cadoganholidays.com).
• Stay at the Kasbah Tamadot from €320 per room per night, or €850 for a Berber tent with pool, including breakfast. 0800 716 919; virginlimitededition.com/kasbah
10. Kasbah Bab Ourika
This new hotel on a hilltop at the apex of the Ourika Valley opens in December (00 212 6125 2328; babourika.com). Built in traditional Berber style, with 360-degree views over the Atlas and traditional villages below, there will be 15 rooms and suites, with a further 16 rooms, a second infinity pool and luxury spa opening in 2009/10. It's trying to do its bit for the local area too, with solar panels, organic locally sourced food and plans for community projects in nearby schools and villages.
• A five-night stay at the Kasbah Bab Ourika with Cazenove+Loyd costs from £420pp (room only), excluding flights. 020 7384 2332; cazloyd.com
11. Oualidia: a new hideaway by the sea
The road to Oualidia is paved with frogs. On the two-hour journey from Casablanca airport, where our driver warned of Morocco's dangerous drivers, who neither dipped their lights nor slowed down at corners, the headlights revealed the horror of a thousand crushed or limping frogs, excited by torrential rain.
Arriving in Morocco, my travelling companion, Alice, and I were struck first by illegal smells - cigarette smoke indoors - a perfume that seemed instantly glamorous. And then the lemon trees, in the airport car park, and then the architecture, of buildings lining the motorway, which looked, in the moonlight, like petrified robots.
Our destination was La Sultana, a sand-coloured palace built on the shore of a lagoon, at the end of a winding sandy road. After the whiteness and midnight markets of neighbouring El Jadida, the colours were muted. The rooms, with huge flat-screen TVs and similar-looking glass-doored fireplaces, each have private hot-tubs on their patios, and a fridge stocked with soft drinks. Each room too has a doorbell, which rings out birdsong every time a maid comes (and come they do, about four times a day, with towels, pillows, soap, and pillows again) but it's often drowned by the actual birdsong outside. It's a good place for birds, apparently. People come to Oualidia just to look at them. The most fun ones were the swallows, which played by the pool, swooping in threes and dipping their little bellies in, then flapping around a bit before diving back down. Beside the pool on our final day, a bird the size of a thumb flickered by my hand.
We woke the next morning for breakfast on the terrace. While the views, over the lagoon and on to the beaches and mountains beyond, were spectacular, the food was not. They brought boiled eggs, which hadn't been boiled, and a plate of delicately cut cheeses, each wrapped around a sweating olive.
We explored the hotel. First, the indoor swimming pool, which is surrounded by fashionable chairs so small they look almost like toys, and a door which leads to the spa's treatment rooms. Outside, wooden bridges wind through a flowering garden to the infinity pool, which curves round a thatched hut and stretches wall-less across the horizon. Scattered between the loungers are more hot-tubs. In three days I saw more hot-tubs than in my whole 27 years, and that includes four which were spent in Brighton.
At lunchtime, the menu consists of overpriced mini-pizzas, but at night they offer oysters, the region's speciality, and a view of the hotel's private pier, stretching out into the lagoon. Everything was breathtaking, and posh, and brilliant, but still we fancied a walk out of the walled complex and up the hill to the village. The staff were horrified. They didn't recommend leaving the spa, they said, because the food would make us ill, and, compared with their five-star facilities, Oualidia would disappoint. We weighed up their mini-pizza menu and decided to brave the outdoors. The walk up to the main road took 20 minutes. Town was shut. It was a national holiday. We walked on, through herds of leaping lambs, to a seafood café by the water. They were playing rock and roll music, and we stayed till dark. During the walk home, as the tide came in, we had to sidestep the rubbish but we found our way by following a trail of half-eaten carrots left by the sheep. Then it started to rain.
There was plenty of time for Alice and I to play with our double basins, and massive telly, and free Coca-Colas, as it rained, heavily and solidly, for two thirds of our short stay. We padded through the puddles to sample the restaurant's grilled oysters, though, and we ate well. They offer traditional tagines too, and honey-baked lamb, and glorious, huge desserts. Eventually we saw sun and drank in some hours by the magnificent pool. It rained all day on Friday, and the dash from our room to the spa area, - where Alice had a hammam scrub, a hard wash in a steamy room - soaked us through. Later the weather shorted the electricity. We sat in the dark, and watched our private hot-tub overflow. In the morning, a single frog sat on the patio, croaking.
Eva Wiseman
• Eva Wiseman travelled with CV Travel (020 7401 1045; cvtravel.co.uk). A five-night stay at the five-star La Sultana in the coastal town of Oualidia costs from £950, based on two sharing and including breakfast, return flights from Heathrow and transfers.
12. Villa in the valley
If you're looking for a lovely villa hideaway, Dar Idraren is a new contemporary four-bedroom property on an old farm estate in the Ourika Valley, in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains, about an hour's drive from Marrakesh. With private pool, personal chef and relaxing surroundings, it's a great base to explore the mountains but close enough to the capital for day trips.
• Dar Idraren will be included in CV Travel's portfolio from December, with prices from £4,500 a week, all-inclusive, for eight people. Other villas are also being opened within the estate. 020 7401 1045; cvtravel.co.uk
13. High Atlas skiing
The Ski Club of Great Britain is running its first trip to Morocco. Between 7-15 March, the eight-night trip mixes skiing and trekking in the High Atlas mountains. Staying in mountain huts and small hotels, ascents include Tizi Likemt and Mount Toubkal, which is, at 4,167m, the highest peak in North Africa.
• The eight-night trip, 7-15 March, costs £1,095, including accommodation, guiding and some meals, but not flights. Contact Skifreshtracks 0845 458 0784; skifreshtracks.co.uk
Desert adventure
14. Sahara trek
Head out into the remote Sahara on a three-day, camel-supported trek as part of Explore's new Moroccan Desert Adventure. You'll be walking five hours a day (either side of a lunchtime snooze), with the camels doing the hard work of kit-carrying (or even people-carrying if required). You'll spy Tuareg camel trains en route to Marrakesh, eat Berber cuisine and sleep in tents or under the stars. The eight-day trip also includes a night in an auberge at Zagora and time in Ouarzazate, or 'Ozzywood', where Prince of Persia is currently being shot (starring Jake Gyllenhaal and Gemma Arterton).
• There are departures in April, October and November 2009, with prices from £985 including flights (Heathrow), transfers, all B&B, other meals and guiding. 0844 499 0901; explore.co.uk
15. Draa Valley
KE Adventure has teamed up with the France-based Allibert company to create a bi-lingual family trekking holiday which gives children the chance to brush up on their French language skills. Starting in Marrakesh, the 'Petits Caravanniers' trip uses camels to explore the Draa Valley at the edge of the Sahara desert, camping by night and walking during the day with camels carrying both equipment and tired children. An eight-day holiday with five days' camping, the trip ends with some all-round entente cordiale in a hotel in Marrakesh. The dates of the trek have been chosen to coincide with school holidays in both countries so there's a mix of nationalities.
• The trip, including accommodation and all meals but not flights, costs £445. 01768 773966; keadventure.com.
16. Desert experience
If you don't have time to head into the Sahara, La Pause offers a desert experience within easy reach of Marrakesh. Owned by a French couple, this mix of Berber tents and traditionally-built mud and straw huts is environmentally low-impact. Water is heated by solar power, the camp is lit by lanterns and candles, and an added dose of cosiness comes when the camp fires are lit at night. Activities include horse and camel riding, mountain biking and desert golf.
• Real Holidays 020 7359 3938; realholidays.co.uk offers a four-night package combining three nights at Riad Noga in Marrakesh with one night at La Pause for £462pp for a family of four
17. Ouarzazate: a town with star quality
The south-eastern oasis town of Ouarzazate (pronounced 'Waa-za-zat') is to take to the silver screen once more in Ridley Scott's thriller Body of Lies, due for release on 21 November. Starring Leonardo DiCaprio and Russell Crowe, the captivating desert scenery is used to depict the Middle East in a tale of an al-Qaeda-busting CIA agent.
The south-eastern oasis town of Ouarzazate (pronounced 'Waa-za-zat') is to take to the silver screen once more in Ridley Scott's thriller Body of Lies, due for release on 21 November. Starring Leonardo DiCaprio and Russell Crowe, the captivating desert scenery is used to depict the Middle East in a tale of an al-Qaeda-busting CIA agent.
Known as 'Ozzywood' or 'Africa's Hollywood', Ouarzazate's no newcomer to the world of film - one of the largest movie studios in the world is found here. It's taken a starring role in Gladiator, Rules of Engagement, Alexander and Babel
The kasbahs, Berber villages and otherworldly sandscapes are the key draw. It's also home to the Kasbah Ait Benhaddou, a protected Unesco World Heritage Site, and star of more than 20 films, where families still live and work.
Ouarzazate makes an excellent base for exploring the Dades Valley, with its pink villages and lush palm groves, and the Draa Valley's awesome Todra Gorge. Alternatively you could saddle up a camel and head deep into the Sahara for an overnight stay amid 650ft dunes. Free from light pollution, this is the ultimate location for star-gazing.
• Best of Morocco has a five-night self-drive itinerary, flying to Ouarzazate from Heathrow, via Casablanca, including a camel trek into the Sahara, from £790, including flights, transfers, accommodation and car hire. 0845 026 4585; morocco-travel.com
Great journeys
18. Train to Andalucía
Morocco's influence on Europe is explored in a train tour run by Ramblers Worldwide from Marrakesh to Andalucía, an area of Spain that has a strong Moorish history. Starting in Morocco's most atmospheric city, the tour continues to Casablanca, exploring the Hassan II Mosque, which is open to non-Muslims, as well as the Medina. There are stops in Rabat and Tangier before taking a ferry to Algeciras. A train journey continues to Ronda and Granada, and the Alhambra Palace. The final destinations are Córdoba and Madrid.
• The cost of £1,269 includes flights, transfers, half-board accommodation and a tour leader. Contact Ramblers Worldwide 01707 331133; ramblersholidays.co.uk
19. Fly-drive discovery
Hit the road and explore the real Morocco on a fly-drive touring holiday to some of the country's off-the-beaten track gems. Simpson Travel will tailor-make an itinerary, pre-booking hotels and putting together a route. You can drive yourself, but a chauffeur-driven trip is recommended for longer jaunts, with the driver acting as a guide. Among more unusual suggestions is the 14-night Imperial Cities itinerary, taking in Rabat, Fez, Erfound, Merzouga, Tinerhir, Ouarzazate and Marrakesh. The tour includes the city of Meknes, the Roman ruins of Volubilis, and a stay in a desert bivouac at Merzouga.
• Prices start from £1,945, including flights, accommodation and chauffeur-guide. 0208 392 5861; simpsontravel.com
20. Mountain biking
The Central High Atlas is one of the most unspoilt regions of Morocco and is a challenge to even the most experienced mountain biker. Using jeep tracks and trails, this 9-day holiday from Saddle Skedaddle takes in the valley of Ait Bougmez, a 47km climb that ends 2500 meters above sea level and a 100km ride on the last day. Most nights are spent in gite accommodation, but there's one night's camping and another spent in a family house. Full back-up is provided in the shape of a support vehicle, along with meals, including picnic lunches.
• Trips start at £695, not including flights. 0191 265 1110; skedaddle.co.uk
Getting there
From this autumn getting to Morocco becomes easier with the launch of several new flights. Ryanair starts twice-weekly flights from Bristol to Marrakesh on 28 October, flying on Tuesdays and Saturdays, and twice-weekly flights from Stansted to Agadir, from 20 November, on Mondays and Thursdays (ryanair.com). No-frills carrier Atlas Blue is also launching twice-weekly flights from Gatwick to Fez, starting on 19 December on Mondays and Fridays (atlas-blue.com).
Royal Air Maroc (royalairmaroc.com) has daily flights to Casablanca from Heathrow, with connections to Agadir, Fez, Marrakesh and Ouarzazate. Atlas Blue flies to Tangier from Heathrow on Tuesdays and Saturdays. Atlas Blue also flies from Gatwick to Marrakesh four times a week. Easyjet has two daily flights from Gatwick to Marrakesh (easyjet.co.uk), Thomsonfly has twice-weekly flights to Marrakesh from Manchester (thomsonfly.com).
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