Life in Morocco: An American Experience
Life in Morocco: An American Experience
Before I came to Morocco several months ago, I had many conceptions and misconceptions about living in a North African, Islamic country. What must I do when I hear the call to prayer? Will I be tolerated as a Christian? Will I be allowed to associate with women? These were all questions that came to my mind when I thought of coming to Morocco. The Morocco of my mind was the Morocco of Hollywood films and when I thought of Morocco, I thought of camels, tents, the French Foreign Legion and the One Thousand and One Nights.
Since I have come to Morocco, my friends and family in America have asked me many questions. “Do they have highways in Morocco?” “Do they have mobile telephones?” “Do they have washing machines?” I’ve also heard more than enough questions about camels and about the desert.
Now I am here. I have lived and worked in Fez for several months and I scarcely see anyone who is not Moroccan. I am entirely immersed in the culture. I eat Moroccan food, my friends are Moroccan, my clothes are Moroccan, and I have done a fair amount of traveling.
Since I arrived, I have seen my fair share of televisions, mobile telephones, highways and European luxury cars. I am however, still waiting to see the desert and those camels that everyone keeps talking about.
Many westerners have misconceptions about Morocco. I myself did not understand things well until I arrived. Muslim women are not shut up in some distant wing of their house where they are forbidden to have interaction with men. The women in Morocco work together with men in just about every job. I should also mention that not all women in Morocco are veiled. Morocco, like every other country has a diversity of people and of culture.
Some women are veiled and wear gloves so that the only part of them that is seen is their eyes as they look over their veils. Other women wear a scarf to cover their hair and they consider that to be sufficient. Then there are other women who do not cover their heads nor their faces and no one seems to be bothered about it.
It is common here in Morocco to see a veiled lady walking with a lady who only wears a scarf or perhaps with a lady who does not cover her head at all. These women who have different religious convictions all get along with one another and are friends.
These women have rights also. Some people make the mistake of thinking that because some Muslim women do not live free lives, then all Muslim women are oppressed. I think that the women of Morocco are among the most free of all of the women in the Islamic world. They come and go as they please. They drive cars. They do business or whatever else is necessary.
One should note that unlike the women of the west, Muslim women have always had the right to hold and inherit property. There have been many very powerful and influential women in Islamic civilization.
For example. in Fez one will find both a synagogue and a Mosque-university which were founded by women. The University is Al-Karouine which was founded by Fatima al-Fihri and it is reputed to be the oldest continuously operating university in the world and the synagogue is Em-Habbanim Obviously these women were not shut away in the harem fanning themselves all the day long. They were an important and influential part of their society.
Another issue should be mentioned, that is that Morocco is a very modern and progressive country. The streets are paved and wide. In Fez, there are fountains at every turn.
There has been much publicity this year about the King’s project of building the tramway in Rabat which apparently has been successful. Contrary to what some people might think, we have electricity, running water, and everything else that one requires for a comfortable life in this modern age. I have not done without anything to which I was accustomed in America save my favorite blend of pipe tobacco.
In Morocco there is a great deal of tolerance as well. Before I traveled to Morocco, I was warned by many friends that it could be dangerous for a Christian to travel to a Muslim land. After all, Muslims hate Christians, they say. Well, perhaps that is true in some places. I don’t know. I am in Morocco. Since I have come to Morocco, I have dined with Muslims. I have slept in their houses, I have been nursed by them when I was sick and they have never insulted me or discriminated against me for not being a Muslim. My friends know that I did not fast for Ramadan and they are not bothered.
In fact, when I visited some Muslim friends during Ramadan, they insisted on preparing food for me so that I could eat throughout the day as I am accustomed to do. They never ate until dusk, but they never asked me to fast with them. Never once has any of my Muslim friends tried to convert me to Islam since I came to Morocco. My religion is simply not anything that they are worried about.
I live in Morocco now. My conceptions now have a foundation and my misconceptions have been corrected and adjusted to correspond to the truth. Now I know that when I hear the call to prayer, I can ignore it. It does not stop all life and movement when it is sounded. Now I know that most people don’t care what my religion is. I don’t have to worry about being discriminated against. Many Muslims call me brother and friend and I know that they are sincere. I can associate with women. I can walk with them in the street and talk with them in their homes and there is no problem. It is easy to live among Muslims and I am quite comfortable here. I think that I shall stay for quite some time.
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Life in Morocco: An American Experience
Fez, October 3, 2011
Before I came to Morocco several months ago, I had many conceptions and misconceptions about living in a North African, Islamic country. What must I do when I hear the call to prayer? Will I be tolerated as a Christian? Will I be allowed to associate with women? These were all questions that came to my mind when I thought of coming to Morocco. The Morocco of my mind was the Morocco of Hollywood films and when I thought of Morocco, I thought of camels, tents, the French Foreign Legion and the One Thousand and One Nights.
Since I have come to Morocco, my friends and family in America have asked me many questions. “Do they have highways in Morocco?” “Do they have mobile telephones?” “Do they have washing machines?” I’ve also heard more than enough questions about camels and about the desert.
Now I am here. I have lived and worked in Fez for several months and I scarcely see anyone who is not Moroccan. I am entirely immersed in the culture. I eat Moroccan food, my friends are Moroccan, my clothes are Moroccan, and I have done a fair amount of traveling.
Since I arrived, I have seen my fair share of televisions, mobile telephones, highways and European luxury cars. I am however, still waiting to see the desert and those camels that everyone keeps talking about.
Many westerners have misconceptions about Morocco. I myself did not understand things well until I arrived. Muslim women are not shut up in some distant wing of their house where they are forbidden to have interaction with men. The women in Morocco work together with men in just about every job. I should also mention that not all women in Morocco are veiled. Morocco, like every other country has a diversity of people and of culture.
Some women are veiled and wear gloves so that the only part of them that is seen is their eyes as they look over their veils. Other women wear a scarf to cover their hair and they consider that to be sufficient. Then there are other women who do not cover their heads nor their faces and no one seems to be bothered about it.
It is common here in Morocco to see a veiled lady walking with a lady who only wears a scarf or perhaps with a lady who does not cover her head at all. These women who have different religious convictions all get along with one another and are friends.
These women have rights also. Some people make the mistake of thinking that because some Muslim women do not live free lives, then all Muslim women are oppressed. I think that the women of Morocco are among the most free of all of the women in the Islamic world. They come and go as they please. They drive cars. They do business or whatever else is necessary.
One should note that unlike the women of the west, Muslim women have always had the right to hold and inherit property. There have been many very powerful and influential women in Islamic civilization.
For example. in Fez one will find both a synagogue and a Mosque-university which were founded by women. The University is Al-Karouine which was founded by Fatima al-Fihri and it is reputed to be the oldest continuously operating university in the world and the synagogue is Em-Habbanim Obviously these women were not shut away in the harem fanning themselves all the day long. They were an important and influential part of their society.
Another issue should be mentioned, that is that Morocco is a very modern and progressive country. The streets are paved and wide. In Fez, there are fountains at every turn.
There has been much publicity this year about the King’s project of building the tramway in Rabat which apparently has been successful. Contrary to what some people might think, we have electricity, running water, and everything else that one requires for a comfortable life in this modern age. I have not done without anything to which I was accustomed in America save my favorite blend of pipe tobacco.
In Morocco there is a great deal of tolerance as well. Before I traveled to Morocco, I was warned by many friends that it could be dangerous for a Christian to travel to a Muslim land. After all, Muslims hate Christians, they say. Well, perhaps that is true in some places. I don’t know. I am in Morocco. Since I have come to Morocco, I have dined with Muslims. I have slept in their houses, I have been nursed by them when I was sick and they have never insulted me or discriminated against me for not being a Muslim. My friends know that I did not fast for Ramadan and they are not bothered.
In fact, when I visited some Muslim friends during Ramadan, they insisted on preparing food for me so that I could eat throughout the day as I am accustomed to do. They never ate until dusk, but they never asked me to fast with them. Never once has any of my Muslim friends tried to convert me to Islam since I came to Morocco. My religion is simply not anything that they are worried about.
I live in Morocco now. My conceptions now have a foundation and my misconceptions have been corrected and adjusted to correspond to the truth. Now I know that when I hear the call to prayer, I can ignore it. It does not stop all life and movement when it is sounded. Now I know that most people don’t care what my religion is. I don’t have to worry about being discriminated against. Many Muslims call me brother and friend and I know that they are sincere. I can associate with women. I can walk with them in the street and talk with them in their homes and there is no problem. It is easy to live among Muslims and I am quite comfortable here. I think that I shall stay for quite some time.
By Jess L. Norton is Morocco World News’ correspondent in Fez, Morocco.
Source: here
Posted by Irinelu' at 1:11 PM
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love souks Smata
I love souks as i find them so photogenic - the people and the variety and diversity and shapes and colours and designs of goods that are usually there and the vibrance of the atmsosphere. So ive been to quite a few around Morocco including those in combination with festivals - on my own but mostly with my moroccan connections - and shopped for orders from my UK moroccan friends eg babouches particularly of the type made in Tetouan.
And then also theres the souks in Tunisia that ive been to too - such as also the excellent Tunis souks! where i did buy some excellent babouches!
Not that it makes it fool proof or even easy! but it does make it a lot easier to have seen the ways of checking and comparing for quality and haggling for prices. Going to the artisanal ensembles helps too in seeing how low the set prices can be and therefore how low you should go in the souks - or in some cases how much cheaper we can get things haggling in the souks.
As for the souks of Marrakech its been said that they are renowned for their variety and high quality and that the craft of leatherworking is even said to have originated here and the craftsmen of Marrakech regarded as master-leatherworkers.
The souks are arranged and known by the type of goods on offer ie Souk Smata for its slippers and belts!but you will also find that as babouches are generally such saleable attractive items for tourists you will find them prominently placed in shops soon after entering the souk and also in the covered markets (kissarias).
Generally aim for babouches that you particularly like of course - and as for price if they ask for 200 dhm or more they are probably worth around 80 dirham - yes even for good leather - or even 60! and if going for nice leather ones check that the leathers soft and nice quality and dont smell!
Leather pouffes are also a favourite and good value - if you haggle well - a standard design should be about 120-150 dirham for medium sized pouffe - the ones that look fabulous and are all one colour of beautifuly soft leather or with lots of colour and work on them can be up to 350 dirham with good haggling - check the smell though - have a good whiff for that nice smell of leather - if its got a pong it probably wont get any better but rather worse and sorry but...stink your house out!....especiallly leather lamps, use something like a fire lighter if you have or ask for some matches to test to apply some heat to the leather and see what aroma is achieved...if its not good quality leather it will release an aroma you dont like.....
Address: Place jemaa el-fna via rue du souk smarine
Directions: In between Rue Souk el-Attarine and Rue Souq el-Kebir. It can help to utilise a guide for a first visit to the souks to locate various souks and sights especially if you dont have much time.
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Moroccan Slippers
Moroccan Slippers
HLATC 1985.14.6, Slippers (babouches), Morocco, 1975-1985
One of my most recent photography projects was a group of footwear from Morocco. This heavily decorated pair of slippers (babouches) was likely created for wear at a special occasion, such as a wedding.
Notice how the slippers don't have backs, very similar to shoes we would call "mules." These slippers were made by the Berber people, traditionally a Muslim culture. The shoes not having backs is likely to allow for easy removal upon entering the Mosque for daily prayer.
An added benefit of backless shoes is allowing for more air circulation, keeping the wearer cool in the heat of Morocco!
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Popular Coastal Cities in Morocco
Morocco may conjure images of sand dunes, dusty mountain trail heads and steamy medina alleyways, but that doesn’t mean those are your only travel options. In fact, not only does Morocco have an extensive coastline to explore, but its coastal cities are some of the most beautiful in the country.
Whether you’re looking for sand or surf, a holiday in Morocco can provide it all. Here are some of the must-see cities on the Atlantic and Mediterranean coasts.
Sidi Ifni – In the far south you’ll find Sidi Ifni, a former Spanish port city that still wears much of its history on its sleeve. The town’s art deco architecture is one of the main tourist draws, but don’t overlook the dramatic seaside cliffs and roaring surf below.
Mirlift – Just north of Sidi Ifni is the tiny fishing village of Mirlift. Easily reached by taxi or bus from Tiznit (15 km down the road), it’s an easy day trip, and one that promises a mellow atmosphere. Stroll along the wide sands, collect shells and beach glass or explore the caves on the northern edge of the beach.
Agadir – Truly Morocco’s beach town, the city was all but destroyed in the 1960 earthquake. The government rebuilt it brick by brick but with an eye for tourism and beachgoers. Visitors can now lounge on the beach or watch the world go by at a boardwalk café. You may even want to head out to one of the many nightclubs.
Essaouira – Have you seen Othello? What about Kingdom of Heaven? If yes, then you’ve seen Essaouira. The new town is built up around the original Spanish fortress, which contains the medina, markets and much of the original fortress structures, including cannons along the waterfront ramparts. The wide sandy beach is also excellent but the city is truly known for kite surfing. The constant off-shore winds provide ideal conditions almost year round, and you’ll be hard pressed to go a day without at least a few daredevils showing their stuff in the water.
Safi – Safi is a beach town, but if you want a beach experience, its best to look elsewhere. Where Safi truly shines is in its ceramics and pottery industry. The city boasts some of the finest work in the country and at the best prices available.
Ceuta/Melilla – These two cities are not Moroccan, but they’re a fun, easy diversion if you’re in Morocco for a long period of time. Both cities still belong to Spain and boast all the trappings of Europe just a stone’s throw from Morocco’s larger northern cities.
Rabat – Rabat’s beach is not much more than a few dozen yards of sand, roped off from port traffic, but that’s not the true draw of the city. Here, the sea sits as backdrop to a thriving medina, dramatic citadel and a fascinating history, all in the current government’s backyard. The fresh fish and sea air serve only to deepen the experience.
Tangier – Tangier has long been considered the gateway to Morocco and for good reason. Sitting on the southern edge of the Straight of Gibraltar, Tangier is but a short ferry ride from Spain, and many visitors to the city are there for their first taste of North African and Arab culture. While you’re there, check out the café hang out of your favorite author (believe me, they’ve been).
Saidia – This Mediterranean town boasts a beach nearly 14 kilometers long, making it an obvious draw for beach lovers. The city is easily reached from Oujda and hosts a folk festival every summer.
What coastal cities do you admire in Morocco – tell our team at Journey Beyond Travel in our comments section below.
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Trekking Around Berkane and Saidia
Trekking Around Berkane and Saidia
Traveling to Morocco presents you with a number of different tours to take advantage of. While planning your trip, you might consider what you are hoping for in a Morocco vacation or holiday. Here, we’ll talk about our active itineraries. Some questions we might ask you before venturing to Morocco include: Are you going trekking? How long do you want to trek for each day? Do you want to see forests or mountain summits? And, how many hours per day is right for you? You see, Morocco is full of all kinds of varied landscapes and topography. It’s best to have an idea of what and where you’d like to trek before going on a Morocco holiday.
The Rif Mountains are one of the most popular destinations in Morocco because they border the coastline near Chefchaouen. You are able to visit the mountains while spending some of your days lying on a beach. Two top cities in the Rifs are Nador and Oujda. You can travel along the road between these two cities visiting various sites, getting some nice hikes in all along the way.
Taking a detour into Berkane–the birthplace of world famous and gold medalist miler Hicham El Guerrouj–will bring you to the Zegzel Gorge. This gorge is built from limestone. It’s not just any type of limestone, but a dark limestone that lies on a fault. This fault is part of the Beni Snassen Mountains, which branch from the Rifs. From Berkane you are able to reach Saidia which is a seaside resort town. In the town you can enjoy many restaurants, beaches, and culture after you have trekked around the Rif Mountains.
Berkane is a small market town that sits just outside of the gorge. There are orchards and vineyards creating some excellent wine for you to enjoy. Hotels are also located in Berkane if you wish to spend the day there before moving on to Saidia.
Part of the gorge you will be trekking in Morocco is the Oued Zegzel, which formed due to the Moulouoya tributary. The tributary runs south along Berkane and used to act as a limit for the Shereefian Empire. If you are walking along this path it will be quite steep, but you may also travel to the trails in the gorge by car.
Before you reach the gorge on your custom Morocco holidays, Taforalt will await you. Taforalt is a smaller village in the Rif Mountains. It is a gearing up point for the trek to the gorge and Grotte du Chameau. The Grotte du Chameau is a local cave of the area with quite a history.
You will hike 10 kilometers from Taforalt to reach the cavern which is filled with stalactites. Many of them look remarkably like camels, which is how the cave got its name. There are a number of different tunnels which lead off from the main cavern. These tunnels are largely unexplored, providing you with places to see that are not filled with tourists. You should have your tour operator book a tour guide with you, though, if you are going to travel off the usual path for a visit.
Once through the cavern there is a picnic area for lunch. You will be able to sit underneath the limestone buttresses surrounded by cedar trees before trekking through the rest of the gorge which is just beyond the cave formation. Walks, treks, day to multi day hikes await these largely unexplored areas of Morocco.
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Like Castles in the Sand: Essaouira, Morocco
Like Castles in the Sand: Essaouira, Morocco
If you thought that Morocco was only a place for camels and sand, you must not have heard about Essaouira. This wind and kite surfer’s paradise is only one place you should stop during your trip in Morocco. For many addicted to this pristine beach town, it is their only stop!
There is a story that goes around Essaouira, Morocco, about how the ruins of former forts and castles on the beach were the inspiration for Jimi Hendrix’s famous song “Castles in the Sand.” Whether or not this story is true is highly debatable, but Jimi Hendrix was a big fan of the town of Essaouira, which he visited in the sixties during his travels of Morocco, prior to the arrival of another great music legend: Bob Marley. The citizens of the town remember both visits fondly, and celebrate both occurrences in Essaouira to this day with various music festivals throughout the year. The Wailers, the former group of Bob Marley, performed in Essaouira during the 2004 festival.
Jimi Hendrix was a big fan of the town of Essaouira, which he visited in the sixties during his travels of Morocco, prior to the arrival of another great music legend: Bob Marley
Essaouira is increasingly becoming seen as a regular tourist destination, but the small town still has a wonderful sense of the past, its place in the past, and its surroundings. Essaouira is certainly not as much of a “tourist trap” as say Marrakesh, and the town is a great place to look for local crafts, or to take a more relaxed pace in the middle of a multi-day or multi-week Moroccan tour. If you like hand crafts, the woodwork in Essaouira is famous as being one of the oldest artistic forms that has thrived in the town. Thuja wood is often used, and the town is considered the main center for wood carving and wood carvers in all of Morocco.
If handcrafts and local markets aren’t your thing, Essaouira is a port town that still brags of battlements and walls from a time when these things were actually necessary for defense. Although no longer in use, these leftover pieces of architecture allow fantastic views of the beaches and the sea that should not be missed on any Morocco itinerary. Essaouira is one of the calmest and most laid back tourist stops you may find while traveling through Morocco, and for many on an extended trip Essaouira is the perfect stop for several days or even a week to rest. While there are hotels available, there are also camp sites not far from the beach, depending on what your taste is.
As far as what there is to occupy your time in Essaouira, almost all the activities eventually come back to the beach. Essaouira has a long and beautiful beach, and since this is a port town, it goes without saying that this may be the best place during a Moroccan tour to get really fantastic sea food. The beach is not surprising considering that the Essaouira has often been referred to as the “jewel of the Atlantic.”
For the type of tourist activity that will get people’s attention back home, there are camel tours on the beach, and if you would like to venture inland to see the desert as part of your Moroccan adventures, they will guide you there, as well.
The other famous aspect of the beach is wind surfing. The winds blow in towards Essaouira constantly, and make the area a destination for wind surfers that is known world wide. If catching the waves is your sort of vacation, then Essaouira may very well be your favorite stop in all of Morocco! And of course, don’t forget the ruins of old castles and fortifications on the beach, that local legends still tie to the famous Jimi Hendrix song.
Rest and relaxation, or wind surfing and trekking. For either type of tourist, Essaouira has plenty to offer, and should be a mandatory stop on any tours of Morocco travel.
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