Moroccan architecture is rich, alluring, and as varied as the landscape of the country itself. Its long history of indigenous Berber people and a series of foreign invaders as well as religious and cultural influences have shaped the countries architectural styles. The architecture can range from ornate with bold with colors to simple, clean lines with earth tones. Morocco’s architecture has been described as exotic, majestic, eclectic, contemporary and traditional a true mix. Influences from the Arab world, Spain, Portugal and France are still can be seen in Moroccan architecture, both on their own and blended with Berber and Islamic styles. Among the buildings, and old Kasbah walls, sit French style-towns left behind by colonization and intersect with intricately detailed mosques and riad-style homes. Still, sleek, modern designs are being constructed in cities like Rabat and Casablanca that give no particular homage to any of the past Moroccan architecture styles. Some distinctive features of Moroccan architecture include geometric patterns and bright colors, most notably in the tiles known as zelij; ornamental Islamic calligraphy, open court yards with lush gardens; and U-shaped entries and large domes. Travelers most often note the finest architecture in the country would be found in Fes and Marrakesh, especially at the mosques with the imposing minarets, elaborate madrassas and palaces. A few places to take in the best examples of Moroccan architecture in these cities include El Bahia Palace and the Koutoubia Mosque in Marrakesh, Nejjarine Square, Saadian Tombs and Andalous Mosque in Fes. The Museum of Moroccan Arts in Fes is also highly recommended, as much for the building as for the exhibits themselves. Experiencing Moroccan architecture in other places is as easy as walking down any street in the city or towns. From government buildings that have stately and ornate outer appearances with imposing Romanesque columns and intricate ornamentation to a walk through one of the ancient gates with its smooth, red clay walls and tall U-shaped arches. Excellent examples of varied styles of Moroccan architecture in Rabat can be found in the Mohammed V Mausoleum, the Kasbah of the Oudaias. The oldest examples of Moroccan architecture are found among the Atlas Mountains in the ancient Kasbahs and old villages. The walls of the Kasbahs, once used as forts and later becoming palaces are made of sun-dried brick in rich red clay tones, similar to the many gates found in some of the larger cities along the coast. Although the walls and buildings are massive, they manage to become part of the landscape rather than arresting it. Perhaps the strongest influence on Moroccan architecture, both old and more modern is the Islamic design elements. Sweeping calligraphy of Quranic verses, extremely detailed friezes of flowers and geometric patterns are unique features, not only of mosques but many other types of buildings as well. Even in the mosques, where Islamic influences reign; the traditional Moroccan tiles with their own design and color aesthetic are incorporated into the fountains used for purifying the body for prayer and in other parts of the building.
Hispano-Moorish architecture has also made deep roots in Moroccan architecture. Brought into Morocco during the Almoravid dynasty over the straight of Gibraltar, its distinctive style is characterized by sharp white walls, green stucco roofs among the arches and domes seen in other typical forms of architectural works.
The architectural elements of Moroccan design do not stop at the exterior building design or interior works of the walls and ceiling. Every door, surface and piece of furniture placed inside the home can be of the highest art qualities. Made using the finest earth elements such as iron and wood, using paints and natural colors of the landscape surrounding the place, Moroccans place a great deal of emphasis on all aspects of their constructed spaces.
Even on some of the plainest homes, a finely carved wooden door with elaborate is a work of art and invitation to the home of its dwellers. Inside, even more intricate wood carvings are found on the visible platforms that hold sadari, the long, soft cushions used as couches and beds. In the same respect, complex crown moldings and ceiling medallions made of plaster add a decorative element to every inch of the interior design.
Both the exterior and interior components of Moroccan architecture are painstakingly produced by hand by crafters from generations of Moroccans who pass their craft down from father to son. While the next generation make sure to add some of their modern ideas, the sense of tradition in how they are crafted will never die.
Towering minarets not only aid the acoustics of the call to prayer, but provide a visible reminder of God and community that puts everything else – spats, dirty dishes, office politics – back in perspective. Muslim visitors claim that no Moroccan architecture surpasses buildings built for the glory of God, especially mosques in the ancient Islamic spiritual centre of Fez. With walls and ablutions fountains covered in lustrous green and white Fassi zellij (ceramic-tile mosaic) and a mihrab (niche indicating the direction of Mecca) elaborately outlined in stucco and marble, Fez mosques are purpose-built for spiritual uplift.
Souq
At the centre of the medina (old city), you’ll find labyrinthine souqs (covered market streets) beneath lofty minarets, twin symbols of the ruling power’s worldly ambitions and higher aspirations. In these ancient medinas you can still see how souqs were divided into zones by trade, so that medieval shoppers would know exactly where to head for pickles or camel saddles. In Morocco, souqs are often covered with palm fronds for shade and shelter, and criss-crossed with smaller streets. Unlike souqs, these smaller streets often do not have names, and are collectively known as qissaria. Most qissariat are through streets, so when (not if) you get lost in them, keep heading onward until you intersect the next souq or buy a carpet, whichever happens first.
Ramparts
Dramatic form follows defensive function in many of Morocco’s trading posts and ports. The Almoravids took no chances with their trading capital, and wrapped Marrakesh in 16km of pink pisé (mudbrick reinforced with clay and chalk), 2m thick. Coastal towns like Essaouira and Assilah have witnessed centuries of piracy and fierce Portuguese–Moroccan trading rivalries – hence the heavy stone walls dotted by cannons, and crenellated ramparts that look like medieval European castles.
Kasbah
Wherever there were once commercial interests worth protecting in Morocco – salt, sugar, gold, slaves – you’ll find a kasbah. These fortified quarters housed the ruling family, its royal guard, and all the necessities for living in case of siege. One of the largest remaining kasbahs is Marrakesh’s 11th-century kasbah, which still houses a royal palace and acres of gardens and abuts Marrakesh’s mellah. Among the most scenic are the red kasbah overlooking all-blue Chefchaouen, and Rabat’s whitewashed seaside kasbah with its elegantly carved gate, the Bab Ouidia. The most famous kasbah is Aït Benhaddou.
Riad
Near the palace in Morocco’s imperial cities are grand riads, courtyard mansions where families of royal relatives, advisors and rich merchants whiled away idle hours gossiping in bhous (seating nooks) around arcaded courtyards paved with zellij and filled with songbirds twittering in fruit trees. So many riads have become B&Bs over the past decade that riad has become a synonym for guest house – but technically, an authentic riad has a courtyard garden divided in four parts, with a fountain in the centre. With more than 1,000 authentic riads, including extant examples from the 15th century, Marrakesh is the riad capital of North Africa.
Hammam
Traditionally they are built of mudbrick, lined with tadelakt (hand-polished limestone plaster that traps moisture) and capped with a dome with star-shaped vents to let steam escape. The domed main room is the coolest area, with side rooms offering increasing levels of heat to serve the vaguely arthritic to the woefully hungover. The boldly elemental forms of traditional hammams may strike you as incredibly modern, but actually it’s the other way around. The hammam is a recurring feature of landscapes by modernist masters Henri Matisse and Paul Klee, and Le Corbusier’s International Style modernism was inspired by the interior volumes and filtered light of these iconic domed North African structures.
Zawiya
Don’t be fooled by modest appearances or remote locations in Morocco: even a tiny village teetering off the edge of a cliff may be a major draw across Morocco because of its zawiya (shrine to a marabout). Just being in the vicinity of a marabout (saint) is said to confer baraka (a state of grace). Zawiya Naciria in Tamegroute is reputed to cure the ill, and the zawiya of Moulay Ismail on the Kik Plateau in the High Atlas is said to increase the fertility of female visitors (consider yourself warned). Most zawiyas are closed to non-Muslims – including the famous Zawiya Moulay Idriss II in Fez, and all seven of Marrakesh’s zawiyas – but you can often recognise a zawiya by its ceramic green-tiled roof and air of calm even outside its walls. To boost your baraka, you can visit the zawiya of Moulay al-Sherif in Rissani, which is now open to non-Muslims.
Image of Moulay Idriss II in Fez by MsAnthea
Medersa
More than schools of rote religious instruction, Moroccan medersas have been vibrant centres of learning about law, philosophy and astrology since the Merenid dynasty. For enough splendour to lift the soul and distract all but the most devoted students, visit the zellij-bedecked 14th-century Medersa el-Attarine in Fez and its rival for top students, the intricately carved and stuccoed Al-Ben Youssef Medersa in Marrakesh. Now open as museums, these medersas give some idea of the austere lives students led in sublime surroundings, with long hours of study, several room-mates, sleeping mats for comfort, and one bathroom for up to 900 students. Most medersas remain closed to non-Muslims, but at Zawiya Naciria in Tamegroute, visitors can glimpse the still-functioning medersa while visiting the library of handwritten texts dating from the 13th century.
Fondouq
Since medieval times, these creative courtyard complexes featured ground-floor artisans’ workshops and rented rooms upstairs – from the nonstop fondouq flux of artisans and adventurers emerged cosmopolitan ideas and new inventions. Fondouqs once dotted caravan routes, but as trading communities became more stable and affluent, most fondouqs were gradually replaced with private homes and storehouses. Happily, 140 fondouqs remain in Marrakesh, including notable ones near Place Bab Ftueh and one on Rue Mouassine featured in the film Hideous Kinky.
Ksar
The location of ksour (mudbrick castles, plural of ksar) are spectacularly formidable: atop a rocky crag, against a rocky cliff, or rising above a palm oasis. Towers made of metres-thick, straw-reinforced mudbrick are elegantly tapered at the top to distribute the weight, and capped by zigzag merlon (crenellation). Like a desert mirage, a ksar will play tricks with your sense of scale and distance with its odd combination of grandeur and earthy intimacy. To get the full effect of this architecture in its natural setting, visit the ksour-packed Drâa and Dadès valleys. Of particular note are the ancient Jewish ksar in Tamnougalt and the three-tone pink/gold/white ksar of Aït Arbi, teetering on the edge of a gorge. Between the Drâa Valley and Dadès Valley, you can stay overnight in an ancient ksar in the castle-filled oases of Skoura and N’Kob.
Deco Villa
When Morocco came under colonial control, villes nouvelles (new cities) were built outside the walls of the medina, with street grids and modern architecture imposing new order. Neoclassical facades, Mansard roofs and high-rises must have come as quite a shock when they were introduced by the French and Spanish. But one style that seemed to bridge local Islamic geometry and streamlined European modernism was art deco. Painter Jacques Majorelle brought a Moroccan colour sensibility to deco in 1924, livening up the spare surfaces of his villa and garden with bursts of blue, green and acid yellow. In its 1930s heyday, Casablanca cleverly grafted Moroccan geometric detail onto whitewashed European edifices, adding a signature Casablanca deco (also called Mauresque) look to villas, movie palaces and hotels.
More cultural highlights can be found in the Lonely Planet guide to Morocco
Morocco Gateway by outdoor sports in Morocco specialist Charlie Shepherd.
Morocco’s mountains and deserts offer exceptional beauty, high drama and intriguing cultural encounters in equal measure, making it an increasingly popular and appealing destination for trekking, be it a challenging summit climb, a multi-day camping trek through untouched wilderness, or a casual day walk to experience a way of life which has hardly changed in centuries .In fact choosing what trek to do in Morocco, and where, can prove a stiff challenge in itself.
So, what are the options and most important considerations to bear in mind when planning your trek in Morocco? As with all types of holiday you’ll have to consider whether to join an organised tour (either on a group or private basis), or whether you intend to organise your trip on a more independent basis. In the case of trekking, both approaches are possible. The following information is geared more towards the independent traveller, although the merits of booking through an experienced operator should not be overlooked.
For the independently-minded and adventurous individual, treks in Morocco can be successfully organised “on-the-spot”, provided certain key guidelines are followed. Most importantly, you are never recommended to trek (for anything more than a casual mountain stroll) without a qualified mountain guide to lead you. Ait Bougmez Valley, the most beautiful valley in Morocco’s High Atlas mountains, is home to Africa’s only mountain guide training college and all certified guides have passed a six-month mountain leadership course here.
Sourcing qualified guides is normally relatively straightforward and any prospective guide should be asked to show you their official mountain guide identity card. The Hotel Ali (just off the Jemaa-el-Fna main square) in Marrakech is a good starting point as many guides tend to congregate here. Asking at reception will normally yield quick results. They also have a stock of 1:100 000 maps which will be useful in your planning.
If you have already researched your trekking region (more on this later) then in some cases you will be able to source a guide at the trailhead. The villages of Imlil, Tabant, Setti Fatma (High Atlas), Tafraoute (Anti-Atlas), Nkob (Jebel Saghro) and Taliouine (Jebel Sirwa) are good places to find local guides, as are their local hotels and guest houses. Guide services cost around 400dh (about €30-35) per day, and, depending on the nature of your proposed hike, you may want to enlist the services of a mule and handler to carry your bags/food/camping gear etc. Mule services cost around 100dh per day (about €8-10) and are recommended for long treks where food and camping equipment needs to be carried. On organised treks with tour companies you will also be provided with a cook to prepare lunches and hot meals in the evenings. All guides know of a cook who can accompany you, should you require one – count on about 200dh (around €15-20) per day.
Another essential consideration prior to settling on any trek is weather and climate. Morocco is predominantly a dry country but severe weather conditions are common in the mountains, even in summertime. Research this well, be prepared with adequate clothing, including multiple layers, good quality waterproof and windproof garments, sturdy hiking boots with ankle support, and always heed the advice of guides who will know local conditions far better than you will. There is no single ideal season to trek in the mountains of Morocco, as each range has its own climatic nuances, although you can count on late spring and autumn as being generally good times to hike. Winter hiking in all but the extreme south and the desert often requires specialist equipment for snow conditions, and summer is only recommended for very high altitude treks where the air is cooler.
So, where to go?
The most popular range of mountains in which to trek is the High Atlas. The highest and most extensive range in North Africa, the High Atlas rise to over 4000m above sea level and boasts Africa’s highest peak, Jebel Toubkal, at a height of 4,167m pr 13,671ft. Toubkal is, by some distance, the most trekked peak in Morocco, and represents an easily-accessible but challenging two or three day hike from the busy trailhead village of Imlil. Imlil has a “Bureau des Guides” where you can get information on the region and source guides, mules and cooks.
The trail up the mountain is a well-trodden one, and two well-equipped refuges at the foot of the steepest part of the climb provide dormitory accommodation and hot meals. The trek is physically-challenging but doesn’t prevent too many technical difficulties for regular hikers, and you’ll normally find the mountain snow covered (sometimes all the way from Imlil up) from December to April, when crampons and ice axes are required.
If your focus includes experiencing a taste of Moroccan rural culture, there are plenty of easily-accessible options from Imlil or Setti Fatma (at the top of the Ourika Valley). For instance a three-day hike through brightly-cultivated valleys and over one high pass, links the two valleys, with your nights spent under canvas, or, somewhat more conveniently, staying in mountain gites, basic village houses licensed to put up passing walkers for the night. The cultural aspect to such treks, or other similar hikes at lower altitudes, makes this a popular choice among visitors.
If you have longer than a week available to you, you might cast your eye further afield. The Toubkal National Park in the High Atlas mountain range, 70 kilometres from Marrakech, has few rivals for convenience, but other parts of Morocco offer comparable beauty and interest for those prepared to invest travelling time to access more distant mountain areas.
The Ait Bougmez valley in the High Atlas Mountains five hours to the east of Marrakech, is one of Morocco’s most absorbing and picturesque trailheads, and one which offers trekking services (guides, mules, cooks, provisions) plus hikes to suit all levels of physical ability. Jebel M’Goun is the country’s third highest peak and is scalable by fit individuals as part of a five day circuit starting and finishing in Bougmez. For more leisurely strolls, the valley itself, with its gite accommodation, fairytale landscape and hospitable folk, will keep you occupied and entertained for three or four days.
Heading southward from this region over the rugged spine of the High Atlas, treks into the Mgoun Gorges lead towards the desert south of the country. The Jebel Saghro, an intruiging landscape of contorted rock formations, table top mountains and bright oases, is a popular winter trekking range and is accessible from the agreeable town of N’Kob. Four to five days will allow you to traverse the range from south to north, finishing on the plains around the town of Boumalne Dades. Beware that trekking in the Saghro requires a high degree of organisation as trails are indistinct, water can be scarce and temperatures ferocious, even in spring and autumn.
The road from the Draa Valley to N’Kob continues to the tallest desert sand dunes in Morocco, close to the community of Merzouga. The Erg Chebbi dunes rise some 300m out of the surrounding flat plains of the “Hamada” stone desert, and their popularity can make them crowded in high season. However, with a bit of effort you can escape the crowds with a good guide and the essentials for overnight stays in the dunes. There are a number of well-equipped, permanent tent camps in the dunes but if solitude is what you are after then you’ll have to be prepared to pitch your own camp. Here camel dromedaries carry the gear (as opposed to mules) and, if you bargain hard, you can hire one for around 200dh (€15-20) per day. Some choose to ride, others prefer to walk - either is possible.
Additionally, here are some other trekking area suggestions together with their corresponding trailheads:
Epic Morocco is a specialist British adventure tour operator owned and managed by Anglo-French couple Charlie Shepherd and Melodie Selvon.
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Charlie spends much of his time leading groups, enjoying the chance to indulge his passion for adventure sports, whilst Melodie spends much of her time looking after their young family.
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Charlie Shepherd, Managing Director
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Charlie Shepherd, Managing Director Charlie is the founder of Epic Morocco and has been working in tourism for the past 13 years. After an extensive period of world travel he joined a Latin American tour operator in 1997 and managed their adventure tours department. After seven years working in London he felt it was time to spread his wings and set up his own company. Epic Morocco was born after a series of visits to Morocco when he and his better half fell in love with the country. He divides his time between leading tours and managing operations from the office.
About Us
www.epicmorocco.co.uk, 30 Sept 2011 [cached]
Epic Morocco is a specialist British adventure tour operator owned and managed by Anglo-French couple Charlie Shepherd and Melodie Selvon.
...
Charlie spends much of his time leading groups, enjoying the chance to endulge his passion for adventure sports, whilst Melodie spends much of her time looking after their young family.
...
Charlie Shepherd, Managing Director.
Charlie is the founder of Epic Morocco and has been working in tourism for the
past 13 years. After an extensive period of world travel he joined a Latin American
Morocco's Bougmez Valley: An Unspoiled Shangri-La
www.gonomad.com, 20 April 2010 [cached]
Specifically, I'd engage Charlie Shepherd, an Englishman who owns and manages the tour company Epic Morocco in Marrakesh.
Although Epic Morocco specializes in adventure tours off the beaten track, Shepherd will also put together a tailor-made intinerary to individual specifications, and he has been sending people to the Bougmez Valley for years.
While I didn't use the firm's services, I had a number of pre-trip conversations and email exchanges with Shepherd and found his recommendations and advice to be spot on.
...
Specifically, I'd engage Charlie Shepherd, an Englishman who owns and manages the tour company Epic Morocco in Marrakesh.
Although Epic Morocco specializes in adventure tours off the beaten track, Shepherd will also put together a tailor-made intinerary to individual specifications, and he has been sending people to the Bougmez Valley for years.
While I didn't use the firm's services, I had a number of pre-trip conversations and email exchanges with Shepherd and found his recommendations and advice to be spot on.
We are proud to be associated ...
www.veloventures.co.uk, 20 Jan 2011 [cached]
We are proud to be associated with Epic Morocco and in particular we value our relationship with their founder and Managing Director Charlie Shepherd.
Frequently Asked Questions About Epic Morocco and Our Tours
www.epicmorocco.co.uk, 14 April 2007 [cached]
Epic Morocco is a UK-registered tour company formed in 2005 and owned by Anglo-French couple Charlie Shepherd and Melodie Selvon.
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Charlie comes from an adventure tours background, having worked formerly as adventure tours manager in a London-based Latin American tour company.
Bride Dubai 2013 - Moroccan Caftans Fashion Show
The tickets to Morocco's biggest fashion show -- Caftan 2013 -- had been sold out for a year. Everyone, yes, everyone,
We love a caftan. So when AHAlife, online purveyor of beautiful lifestyle products, ventured to Morocco for the country’s 2012 Caftan Show, we required a first-hand report. Don your most decadent garb and hop on a magic carpet, because we’re off to Marrakech! Details on the show’s inspiration, the sumptuous collections and the drama of it all, below…
The Caftan Show is the premiere fashion event in Morocco, a country renowned for glamorous cultural fusion. The presentations are nothing like what we see in New York, Paris or Milan, though. Here’s what makes Morocco’s Caftan Show a specifically memorable event on the international fashion calendar:
Theme: The Caftan Show has a designated theme and this year’s extravaganza paid tribute to Ibn Battuta, a Moroccan explorer, considered the greatest traveler of the Old World (he logged more miles than Marco Polo). Twelve international designers were invited to create a collection incorporating the concept of travel, adventure and discovery. Each designer imbued the traditional caftan with spectacular colors and embellishment according to their chosen geography. Even the set designs and dance routines celebrated their respective destinations.
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The Russian Inspired Collecion
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Entertainment: That’s right, we said set designs and dance routines. Preceding each collection was an over-the-top dance number, choreographed by Jais Zinoun and replete with elaborate costumes and a gigantic movie screen background. Belly dancers preceded the Arabian themed collection while mummies somersaulted through the air to introduce Egypt. Moroccan pop star Abdelfattah Grini opened the show. Can you imagine if New York Fashion Week turned it out like this before every collection?
Craftsmanship: In terms of handiwork, the only comparison to Morocco’s Caftan Show is Paris’ Haute Couture. The detailing on each caftan is dizzying: sequins of many shapes and sizes, peacock feathers, voluminous ruffles, oversize tassels, webbed lace, miles of embroidery and exuberant textile hues a bucket of Crayola crayons couldn’t touch. Traditional artisans spend hundreds of hours on each caftan. Like Haute Couture, royals from the Middle East–and jet setters alike–will meet with designers afterward to have the caftan of their liking customized and made to measure.
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AHAlife's Rebecca Prusinowski takes in the afterparty in Marrakech
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Long and Late: Things in Morocco aren’t terribly organized, and that definitely goes for the Caftan Show. But that’s part of this country’s appeal: It’s sensual, beautiful, and known for long nights. The show started a couple hours late and was hotter than a hammam. Well-heeled attendants hydrated with champagne and retreated to the atrium’s grand staircases to sit and fan themselves while waiting for the show doors to open. Quite a juxtaposition against the opulent pieces that graced the catwalk later on! We can only liken the experience to a Marc Jacobs show at the Armory (before he became punctual, circa 2007). The afterparty was scheduled to begin at 11pm but didn’t get swinging until well after midnight. But it was no matter. Held at the just-opened Park Hyatt Golf Resort outside the city center, the entire property was awash in candlelight and boasted a fabulous band, more food than you can imagine, and glittering pools of water dotted with floating VIP islands. Hundreds of party-goers danced until dawn–which is to say, in typical Moroccan fashion.
Kaplans return from Morocco with treasure trove of diplomatic memories
MinnPost photo by Sharon Schmickle
Sam and Sylvia Kaplan with SonnyBoy, their 22-month-old lab given to them by Gen. Housni Benslimane of the Royal Moroccan Gendarmerie.
Most of us cherish mementos from our travels – t-shirts from far-away beach bars, colorful ceramics and hand-crafted clothing.
But few could match the treasure trove that Sylvia and Sam Kaplan are unpacking in their Minneapolis home after nearly four years in Morocco, where he served as U.S. ambassador: 8,000 pounds – yes, four tons – of rugs, antique swords, tea sets, cookware, art, clothing, etc., etc.
The Kaplans purchased most of the items they shipped from Morocco to Minnesota. Other pieces were gifts.
The exchange of diplomatic gifts is a centuries old tradition, according to the National Archives.
“From the ancient civilizations of Rome and Egypt to the native tribes of North America, ceremonial gifts have paved the way for peaceful coexistence between peoples of different cultures,” says a display in the archives.
In 1787, a young America decided to reject these universal symbols in the language of diplomacy. The founders banned the acceptance of foreign gifts by U.S. government officials.
But refusing them proved impossible.
“It was at best impolite and at worst a stinging offense,” says the Archives display.
As a result, every president since George Washington has received gifts of state, as have most of their representatives in other countries.
Federal law requires U.S. officials to report gifts of more than minimal value, currently defined as $350. Lists of the reported items are published annually in the Federal Register. Some U.S. Ambassadors have reported receiving lavish gifts; for example, in 2011 an ambassador reported that he and his wife received Germani diamond watches worth $37,000 from a major general in the Armed Forces of Qatar. The explanation noted is typical: “non-acceptance would cause embarrassment to donor and U.S. Government.” The watches were turned over to the U.S. General Services Administration, the entry says.
The Kaplans said that they did not receive gifts of more than minimal value.
In combination, the gifts and the items they purchased represent more than mere souvenirs. Many of the items represent stories of culture and diplomatic life in a fascinating and pivotal country during these globally turbulent times. The Kaplans took time last week to share a few such stories with MinnPost.
SonnyBoy
By far the keepsake commanding the most attention is SonnyBoy, an energy-packed, 22-month-old yellow lab.
The dog was a gift from Gen. Housni Benslimane, who oversees national security as commander-in-chief of the Royal Moroccan Gendarmerie.
In Morocco, the Kaplans had a front row seat for high-stakes political drama, watching government after government collapse as unrest spread across North Africa and the Middle East. Demonstrators took to the streets in Morocco, too, but never with enough lasting intensity to shake the government.
The common voice across Tunisia, Egypt and Libya was the voice of people who hated dictators and their corrupt families.
“It is just the opposite in Morocco,” Sam Kaplan said. “You have a stable government, you have a monarch who is revered by all or virtually all, and he has a family that behaves properly.”
Even so, Morocco is under constant threat from the terrorism that infects the region. Jihadists have recruited in the country, and Casablanca and other cities have suffered bombings.
This is where SonnyBoy comes into the story. The Kaplans were invited to a demonstration of Morocco’s capacity for fighting terrorism, including its canine corps.
When the demonstration ended, Benslimane approached Sylvia carrying a small case. Inside was SonnyBoy as a tiny puppy.
The Kaplans like dogs. And after the family pet died 20 years ago, they thought about replacing him.
“We had vigorously said ‘No!’,” Sam said.
“But in Arab countries, to refuse a gift is like a declaration of war,” Sylvia said. “You don’t say no.”
So SonnyBoy joined the Kaplan family. He also took his place in the limelight that shines on American ambassadors around the world. Benslimane sent a trainer to civilize the rambunctious puppy. When it was time to visit the vet, the TV cameras were there too.
Gifts of live animals are unusual but not unheard of in diplomatic circles. The Indonesian government presented a Komodo dragon to the first President Bush. The dragon, Naga, lived at the Cincinnati Zoo & Botanical Garden until it died in 2007.
For SonnyBoy’s full story, see this MinnPost video.
Sam and Sylvia Kaplan introduce SonnyBoy
Student art
While the Kaplans purchased notable works of art, the pieces they were eager to show are personal items they had received from students. Take the multiple images of Sam done on a poster in Andy Warhol style.
The tributes were a thankful response to the Kaplans' willingness to give talks before student groups and also invite students to diplomatic dinners at the ambassadorial residence in Rabat.
Even with relative political stability, young Moroccans share the frustration that has set off revolts elsewhere in the region. They are part of a so-called youth bulge, a generation denied the job security their parents enjoyed and armed by new tools of social media to express their disillusionment.
MinnPost photo by Sharon SchmickleSam and Sylvia Kaplan displaying artwork from students. “The youth bulge and unemployment is a very real issue,” Sam Kaplan said. “The official unemployment rate is about 9 percent. But everybody agrees that on the streets of Casablanca for 16- to 30-year-olds the unemployment rate is probably 30 percent.”
Students who snagged invitations to the ambassador’s residence would find themselves at a long table where the main dish might come in an individual tagine (classic Moroccan cooking vessel) and tea would be served in ornate glasses. The Kaplans' Minneapolis kitchen now features ample sets of tagines and tea glasses.
Rather than taking seats at the ends of tables, the Kaplans generally sat in the middle of the table and engaged everyone in the same conversation.
“I would control the discussion, and Sylvia would from time to time bicker with me as to how I was doing it,” Sam said. “I think people liked it.”
Sylvia recalled one dinner where Minneapolis Mayor R. T. Rybak was among the 25 guests. Several college students had been invited to join high-powered Moroccan ministers and a few ambassadors.
“We talked about young people,” Sylvia Kaplan said. “We asked some of our guests to tell them how it was when you were that age and how you expected your life to be and how it turned out differently.”
A fascinating discussion unfolded.
“Some had not thought about it for years,” she said. “It wasn’t a maudlin sharing. But on the other hand, it got kind of personal and intimate.”
Other dinners featured visiting U.S. senators, high-ranking officials, business leaders, military officers and prominent journalists. Often the conversation was intended to shed light on changes in U.S. government and policies or on unfolding events around the world.
MinnPost photo by Sharon Schmickle
MinnPost photo by Sharon SchmickleAntique swords and decorative boxes are just some of the four tons of treasures from Sam Kaplan's four-year tenure as U.S. ambassador to Morocco.
Losing servants, gaining freedom
In Morocco, the butler and the rest of the household staff, thought the Kaplans were joking when they said there would be no butler, driver or even a full-time maid in Minnesota.
“Every one of the elites and even some of the not-so-elites had maids in Morocco,” Sylvia said.
Typically Minnesotan, I assumed that Sam felt relieved because he no longer needs to call for a driver every time he wants to go somewhere.
“It must be great to just jump in your own car and drive,” I said.
Long pause, scowl and then, “What?”
“I mean the freedom to drive somewhere without having to organize a driver and a security entourage.”
“I liked being driven,” he said emphatically.
Imagine never having to look for a parking place, stop for gas or Google directions.
“It’s a good thing we got out because if you do that for too long you get an exalted sense of yourself,” Sylvia said. “Humility is important. And you have to remember what positional power is. It is not about you. It is about the position.”
Truly, there were disadvantages to constant service from a well-intentioned staff. The Kaplans wanted, for example, to take back-row seats at a concert in case they decided to duck out early. Nothing doing.
“Our bodyguards, a team of 10, were so insistent that we be treated properly,” Sam said. “We had to go to the front row.”
And Sylvia said, “I don't like having servants around the house at all. . . . I don't mind doing the laundry.”
Well, maybe ironing summer linens is drudgery.
But Sylvia said she actually cooked more in Morocco than she does in Minneapolis. The Kaplans gave the servants weekends off. And going out to eat on their own was not as easy an option as it is in Minneapolis.
One freedom the Kaplans definitely enjoy in Minnesota is to openly engage in politics – on the DFL side. Sam Kaplan was a prominent Minneapolis attorney before President Obama appointed him to the ambassadorial post in 2009. Such political appointments typically last only about three years, but the couple had to pull back from political activism until their overseas duty was fulfilled.
Upon coming home, “We got right into it,” Sylvia said.
In setting a date for my visit, they juggled calendar events: the (Congressman Tim) Walz thing, the (Gov. Mark) Dayton thing . . . a visit with (Minnesota Sen.) Sandy Pappas. Since their return in May, they’ve hosted political fundraisers. And they’ve taken a leadership position on the finance arm of U.S. Sen. Al Franken’s re-election campaign.
Women in Morocco
When I asked to see treasured Moroccan items, one of the first that Sylvia displayed was a black and white caftan. It was from Oujda, a city near Morocco’s border with Algeria.
MinnPost photo by Sharon SchmickleThe wife of the mayor of Oujda presented Sylvia with this black and white caftan and the tea set.
When the mayor of Oujda invited the Kaplans to dinner, his wife did not join them. But she did ask for a private meeting with Sylvia where she presented the caftan and a set of tea glasses in assorted jewel colors.
In Minnesota political circles people often speak of the Kaplans as if they were one person named Sylvia N. Sam. In Morocco they were determined to work that same kind of partnership.
It was a serious challenge in a part of the world where women often must stay in the background or even hide themselves from public view. Moroccan women have more power than their sisters in other parts of the region, and many work as doctors, lawyers and other professionals.
Even with relative empowerment, though, life is hard for most Moroccan women, especially in small towns, Sylvia said. While the Kaplans were in Morocco, a 16-year-old girl killed herself by eating rat poison after she was forced to marry her rapist. It is a traditional practice for a rapist to marry his victim in order to escape prosecution and to preserve the honor of the woman’s family.
“There still are things happening, but you could not always see it,” Sylvia said. “You would have to delve down to know it.”
Many organizations are working to improve the lot of women, but the efforts aren’t always effective, Sam said.
“You cannot believe how many [non-governmental organizations] there are that are doing the same thing,” he said. “They dilute their effectiveness by their failure to band together.”
So, it was assumed that Sylvia would take a backseat to her husband. Minnesotans who know her also know that is not at all in her nature.
“When we started the process, I was doing the speaking in public,” Sam said. “Then we went to the next phase in which I would call Sylvia up, and we would jointly answer questions. Midway through the process we were a team of speakers, and they had never had that before.”
Sylvia recalled an invitation for her husband to speak at the Moroccan Diplomatic Academy: “He said, ‘That’s fine. And my wife, who is not a diplomat, will be with me and she will speak also.’ I think the guy swallowed a few times and then he said ‘OK.’”
She could coach young diplomats on the social aspects of their work, a big part of the job.
“I was very careful even though I would suggest I wasn’t,” she said. “You are representing America, and you have to be.”
Did Morocco change the Kaplans?
Now, surrounded by memory-teasing treasures, the Kaplans said they have changed from the couple that left Minnesota.
For one thing, they have a deeper understanding of the views of the United States in other parts of the world. As they watch the evolving U.S. policy toward the conflict in Syria, they recall a diplomatic gathering in Marrakesh last December as delegates from more than 100 countries wrestled with questions of what could stop the bloodshed.
“Sylvia and I were there and we had some opportunity to see what was going on,” Sam said. “In many respects, the situation is worse since then. The opposition was more clearly identified. Now it is much too confusing, and there are plenty of bad guys on the side of the opposition.”
What is clear, they said, is that the United States must avoid any appearance of interfering in the affairs of countries in the region.
“They don’t see it as the United States’ job to interfere,” Sylvia said. “They say: ‘This is our part of the world. We’re your friends. Come and ask us. We can be helpful to you.’”
Sam Kaplan modeling the cloak he brought home from Morocco.
The complicating backdrop to all impressions of America is the Israeli-Palestinian conflict.
“It so influences their thinking that we are -- in their judgment -- on the wrong side of that conflict even though we argue -- without acceptance on their part -- that we are very supportive of the Palestinians as well,” Sam said.
One other subtle but significant change for the Kaplans is a renewed appreciation of Minnesota-style civic engagement.
“Every event we’ve gone to – political fundraisers and other events for good causes where people come together and they give time and money and their passion – we look around and say ‘That doesn’t happen this way in other parts of the world,” Sylvia said.
Of course, citizens in other parts of the world are sounding political voices, especially in the Middle East and North Africa.
But many in those regions did not understand what Sylvia called “Paul Wellstone electoral politics,” the enthusiasm and passion that drove an ordinary Minnesota college professor to become a U.S. senator and a renowned champion for causes he believed in.
“We talked to students about the joy of politics,” she said. “This was an opportunity for us as political activists to say that ordinary people who start with nothing can become somebody. ... It was an opportunity for us to explain how America works.”
The caftan is truly timeless: dating back more than 5,000 years to ancient Mesopotamia, it came in and out of vogue through Greco-Roman times, stopping off in medieval Tsarist Russia, cruising through sub-Saharan Africa and up to the Berber markets of Marrakesh. Raiment for royals and simple shifts for serfs, the caftan beats the heat for both men and women.
It was French couturier Paul Poiret who conjured the modern caftan at the start of the Deco period, trimming it with fur and baubles. Then in the ’50s, the fabulous Diana Vreeland, longtime editrix of Harper’s Bazaar, began to haul gilded gowns out of Morocco and preach their glamour to a prim American public.
There is no designer more associated with the caftan than Yves Saint Laurent, who became Morocco’s most famous expat in the ’60s, and was himself of North African descent, hailing from the French Algeria. His Rive Gauche caftans found their way to royalty (Princess Grace), Hollywood (Elizabeth Taylor, whose caftan collection was unrivalled) and haute hippie trustifarians (Talitha Getty, who swanned around Marrakech rooftops in them while high).
Despite a brief ’70s schlockey period, the sophisticated caftan continues to captivate, gracing the closets of Kardashians, Katy Perry and Angelina Jolie — and the runways. Nearly 50 years after the ankle-grazing cloaks hit the catwalk, the look is as fresh as ever.
next souq or buy a carpet, whichever happens first.
