The Foods of Morocco

When I began my own exploration of Moroccan cooking some 18 years ago, my Moroccan in-laws and friends convinced me that no Moroccan cookbook in English could possibly be of use to me. Proper Moroccan cooking, they assured me, was learned by watching. And so that’s what I did for many years, until I finally began collecting Moroccan cookbooks as part of my work for About.com.

The first book I acquired, Paula Wolfert’s Couscous and Other Good Food from Morocco (1973), was an epiphany for me. Not only was I genuinely surprised that good, authentic Moroccan recipes could indeed be found in print, but I was fascinated that Paula’s anecdotal accounts of life in Morocco rang true to some of my own experiences in Morocco some 40 years later. When I moved beyond the stories, there was a wealth of information to digest – so much, in fact, that I keep my now-worn copy of Couscous and Other Good Food on my desk and use it as a reference book.

So it was with much anticipation that I waited for the release of Paula Wolfert’s brand new The Food of Morocco. When my review copy finally arrived by courier, I immediately set about reading it.

There is much to like, even upon initial inspection. Beautifully designed, the book contains 500-plus pages of appealing layout that invites both page-turning and page-lingering. Stunning color photographs by Quentin Bacon – almost every spread has them – are works of art that capture the very essence of Moroccan culture and cuisine. As a food writer close to the subject matter, I was especially drawn to the food styling; the pictures show Moroccan food as it really is served in so many Moroccan homes – sometimes on slightly chipped plates, other times alongside imperfect teapots and cutlery, and more often than not with sauce not wiped perfectly clean along the edges of a much-used serving vessel. This is not a five-star restaurant’s lavish take on an ever-evolving cuisine, but an authentic representation of what Moroccan food means to the people who eat it regularly.

Although The Food of Morocco is pretty enough to leave on your coffee table, you’ll find countless reasons to bring it into your kitchen. The heart of any cookbook is the recipe collection, and Paula has provided hundreds of them. They run the gamut from comfort food like Berber Fava Bean Puree (p. 436) and White Beans with Saffron and Meat Confit (p.425) to more refined dishes such as a modern Seafood, Spinach and Noodle Bastila (p. 142). In between, entire sections are devoted to not only predictable favorites such as couscous, tagines and flatbreads, but also to cooking techniques, cooking equipment and essential spices and pantry items. Sidebars and intros provide adequate space for Paula to weave in culinary tales, divulge regional and historical contexts, and share poignant quotes from the literary giants who helped shape her own Moroccan experiences. All the while, she dishes out ample cooking advice while graciously acknowledging sources.

For those already intimate with Moroccan cuisine, there are plenty of dishes to court your palate or inspire a sidestep from your usual repertoire, such as Fish Smothered with Onion Jam (p. 264), Steamed Calamari with Preserved Lemon and Argan Oil (p. 262) and Chicken with Eggplant-Tomato Jam (p. 290). And, for kindred spirits keen on culinary perfection, Paula offers suggestions for elevating flavor even in simple, everyday dishes. In her Roasted Beet Salad with Cinnamon Recipe (p.74), for example, she promotes slow roasting the root vegetable (she goes so far as to suggest a dry roast in a Chinese sand pot) in order to draw out an intense sweetness that boiling simply can’t achieve. It’s this attention to detail, perhaps, that has helped earn Paula a loyal following from critics and home cooks alike; it’s also the kind of advice, if followed, that will help you to transform an ordinary salad into something you’ll yearn for time and again.

The Food of Morocco certainly builds upon Paula’s previous work, yet it can hardly be called a follow-up or revision to Couscous and Other Good Food from Morocco, as it feels and reads like its own unique masterpiece; nor can it simply be labeled Paula Wolfert’s “latest” cookbook (she’s written eight others, a journey which has led the author to garner a James Beard award, a Julia Child Award, a Tastemaker Award and other accolades). What The Food of Morocco really is, is a lifetime achievement, a culmination of almost 50 years spent in pursuit of good Moroccan food. During this time she mastered not only the cuisine, but how to make it accessible to those who’d never heard of it. She’s hunted down details, stayed true to her own standards of perfection, and delivers passion and culinary wisdom in a way which invites the reader to cook and to explore, all while getting to know the writer.

It's a book well worth owning, and one you're unlikely to part ways with once you do.

The Foods of Morocco

If you’ve ever seen the movie Casablanca, you were no doubt captivated by the mystique of Morocco. Home to an estimated 34 million people, Morocco is a culturally rich amalgamation of Arabic, Spanish, French and Berber (the original tribes of North Africa that represent a mixture of different ethnic groups) cultures, each infusing the landscape with their own unique traditional cuisine, customs, music and history. In fact, many travelers lovingly refer to Morocco as “a magical and mysterious blend” of cultural influences.

Situated just a short ferry ride from the southern tip of Spain, Morocco (with Marrakesh, Fès, Rabat and Tangiers being the major cities) is sandwiched between the Atlantic Ocean to the west, Algeria to the east, the Mediterranean Sea to the north, and the western Sahara to the south. With a backdrop encompassing spectacular mountains, a picturesque coastline, expansive sand dunes and vibrant cities and villages, it’s no wonder it is considered one of the most beautiful countries in the world.

Devouring Morocco

In terms of gastronomic delights, Morocco is brimming with a vast diversity of regional culinary specialties and traditions that together offer a feast for the body, mind and soul.



The country is a cornucopia of distinctive recipes created from an abundance of homegrown and imported spices such as kharkoum (turmeric), libzar (pepper), karfa (cinnamon), zaafran beldi (saffron) and coriander; fragrant herbs like mint and sandalwood, succulent Mediterranean fruits and vegetables including oranges, pumpkin, lemons, pomegranates, figs, eggplant, spinach, artichokes, peppers, and sweet potatoes; and a plethora of fresh seafood, and earthy meats including mutton, rabbit, lamb, chicken, beef and sometimes camel.

As in many countries and cultures, careful and artistic meal preparation and presentation is almost as important as the food itself. In Morocco the midday repast is the main meal of the day, except during the holy month of Ramadan—the Islamic month of fasting—when the fast is broken at sunset on the last day with a sumptuous meal. But it’s the Moroccan people’s passion for cooking and community that bring the food here to life, and clearly says, “Mrehba (Welcome) to Morocco!”

Harira, Pastillas and Zaalouk – Oh My!

Why not start your gastronomic adventure with a stogie? Now don’t worry, there’s no need to look for matches or an ashtray, as a stogie here is a popular (and non cancer-inducing) appetizer made with ground beef wrapped in a fluffy dough. Other popular Moroccan appetizers are Djaj Souiri, an omelet-like chicken and egg dish with saffron, cinnamon and ginger; fried or baked Msemens, a Moroccan pancake with ground beef and/or onion; and believe it or not, Danish Edam cheese as part of a typical cheese plate.



Potages—soups—are meal mainstays here also. These include the traditional Moroccan Harira—a lentil and tomato concoction best-loved during Ramadan and infused with cilantro, ginger, onion, cinnamon, celery, pepper and parsley—Bessara, a vegetarian split pea soup, Dchicha dyal Zraa made with cracked wheat, onion and olive oil, and several varieties of a semolina soup made with anise, milk, honey and/or saffron, the latter sometimes also served for breakfast.



The national dish of Morocco is the wheat kernel Couscous, and you will find it served in a wide array of creative and delightful variations made with allspice, kosher salt, cumin, garbanzo beans, chicken broth, cayenne pepper, fresh mint, red onion, raisins, yellow, green or red bell pepper, cloves, coriander and/or zucchini, in addition to other herbs and spices. Pastillas from the Berber culture, which are for the most part served as an appetizer, are hearty sweet and salty meat pies where the ingredients often vary with what is available in a particular region. But expect to find them made with some combination of fish, shredded chicken, squab, sugar, onions, parsley, cinnamon and ground almonds inside of a thin, phyllo-like dough. Even non-fans of the full bodied “big purple plant” will most likely enjoy Zaalouk, a Moroccan eggplant dish where chunks of fresh, plump eggplant are combined with cilantro, paprika, vinegar, pepper, tomatoes, cumin, garlic, salt, olive oil, and parsley.



Every meal is served with some kind of bread, including flat bread called Khubz Maghrebi, country bread kneaded into fist-size balls, to Harcha or Harsha—a combination of semolina flour, baking powder, butter, vegetable oil, milk and salt and pan-fried bread with a texture and taste similar to cornbread and resembling that of an English muffin. These breads, in addition to a variety of other regional varieties, are also often used as a utensil with which to pick up your food, since most Moroccan meals are eaten with your hands.



The wealth of Morocco’s robust culinary dishes really takes center stage with the main dishes. One staple found all over the country is Kefta, balls of ground lamb or beef mixed with the “chef’s choice” of ground pepper, paprika, mint, cinnamon, minced onion, cumin, and coriander (they are also sometimes cooked and served on skewers). You will also find Khlea, a cooked, dried meat preserved in its own fat and olive oil and often eaten by itself as a snack, or served with a variety of vegetables like black-eyed peas; Merguez, a spicy sausage made with ground lamb and/or beef and served as links, patties, in pastries, with eggs and other presentations; and Ferakh Maamer, a casserole of spring chicken stuffed with couscous sweetened with sugar, almonds, raisins and orange-flower water, simmered in cinnamon, garlic, saffron, onion, honey and ginger.

Everything Comes to a Mouth-Watering End

No Moroccan meal would be complete without dessert—another taste bud enticing experience of its own. In addition to a medley of seasonal fruits, Moroccans also serve incredible sweets such as Briouat or Kaab el Ghzal (similar to baklava), a triangular shaped flaky pastry filled with almond paste and dipped in honey. Zucre Coco, a coconut fudge cookie and Halwa Shebakia, deep-fried, pretzel-shaped dough plunged into hot honey and sprinkled with sesame seeds are other popular desserts.



And to drink? Everywhere you go—in fact at least twice a day—the denizens here drink Moroccan Mint Tea, green tea made with mint and sugar. Moroccan Mint Tea transcends serving as a mere refreshment, to holding its own as a true art form. Traditionally served by the men, its significance comes through in the “pouring,” from special tea pots with curved spouts from high above the table, splashing creatively yet gently into short glasses. Whether enjoyed with a meal or on its own, a day without Moroccan Mint Tea is like a day without air—it’s such an inextricable part of the culture.

So whether in Casablanca, Tangiers, Marrakesh or Fès; Zagora, Essaouira, Rabat, Salè or Agadir, you’re sure to enjoy one of the most fantastic epicurean adventures in the world.

Morocco Museums

Morocco Museums


Discover and learn the rich culture that Morocco offers by visiting Morocco’s museums


Essaouira

Sidi Mohamed Ben Abdullah: Museum of Art
Meknes

Dar Jamai Museum: Museum of Art
Fez

Borj Nord Museum: Military collection
Dar Batha : Museum of Moroccan Art, it has a collection of Moroccan crafts, ceramics, jewelry…etc.
Tangier

Museum of Moroccan Art : a large collection of Moroccan crafts, ceramics, jewelry…etc
The American Legation Museum: It was established in 1821, a gift to the United States from the Moroccan Sultan Moulay Suliman. The first piece of property acquired abroad by the U.S. government. The museum has an art collection, and a research library.
Forbes Museum: It was founded by the American billionaire and publisher of Forbes magazine. It has a huge collection of lead soldiers. The museum is now the property of Moroccan government.
Marrakesh

Majorelle Museum: It has a collection of Moroccan and Islamic art.
Dar Si Said: Berber art collection
Maison Tiskiwin, also known as Bert Flint museum: it has a big collection of Moroccan Berber art, architecture, design, decor, pottery and painting.

Moroccan Experience-Experiencing Moroccan holidays as a foreigner


Morocco is famous for its hospitality, and while major Islamic holidays can be a busy time, the sense of hospitality remains unchanged. If your travel plans coincide with Ramadan or Eid Kbir, understanding a bit more about these Islamic holy days will help you appreciate Moroccan culture and customs more meaningfully. Keep in mind that most Islamic holidays are based on the lunar calendar, so they occur at a different time each year.
Ramadan in Morocco
Ramadan is well-known in the West as a month of fasting: Muslims refrain from eating and drinking from sunup to sundown. But a part of Ramadan you may not have heard of involves festivities: a holiday celebrating the end of the month – known in Morocco as Eid Seghir – and the joyous family gatherings when the fast is broken at sunset each day. At dusk, Moroccans come together for l-ftour – literally, “breakfast.” Often they gather around televisions to enjoy the Ramadan specials that air each year. As soon as the sundown call to prayer sounds, the difficulties of the fast are forgotten as everyone relaxes and enjoys traditional foods like dates, tea, harira (a delicious lentil and vegetable soup), and specially prepared flatbreads and sweets. When I lived in Morocco, families were always eager to share this meal with me; I was in a taxi once when the last call to prayer sounded, and the driver gave each of the passengers a delicious, juicy, sweet date so we could all break the fast together. The sense of sharing and community, always strong in Morocco, is especially evident during Ramadan.

If you are traveling in Morocco during Ramadan, you can show respect by eating in private or after dark as much as possible. Schedules will change during Ramadan – many people stay up late feasting and sleep in, if they can – but often establishments that cater to tourists remain open. You may find it easiest to adopt a schedule similar to the locals’: you’ll find that mornings tend to be slow, while cafes and restaurants remain open and lively late into the night. Above all, Ramadan is a time when Moroccans fast to practice self-control and to express solidarity with those who are hungry, and feast to celebrate family and friends – and it’s wonderful to experience first-hand.
Eid Kbir in Morocco
Eid Kbir, or “the big holiday,” occurs about two months after the end of Ramadan each year. It commemorates Abraham’s willingness to sacrifice his son – a story that Muslims, Christians and Jews are all familiar with (though in the Islamic tradition, it’s believed that the son Abraham is asked to sacrifice is Ishmael, not Isaac). Each family celebrates by buying the largest ram they can afford, slaughtering it according to custom, and sharing the meat with family as well as those less fortunate. If you’re traveling through Morocco in the weeks leading up to the holiday, you can spot rams being transported in buses, trucks, and even taxis to regional markets throughout the country.

Traditionally, everyone buys new clothes and dresses in their best attire for the holiday, which has a wonderfully festive air. In cities and villages alike, families sacrifice their rams on rooftops or in courtyards, and everyone celebrates outdoors as the smells of barbecuing meat fill the air. This is the biggest holiday of the year: entire extended families return to the countryside where they grew up, and family members working in Casablanca, Rabat, or abroad return to Morocco as well. This means that transportation systems can get overloaded and travel can be difficult in the days leading up to the holiday – so if you happen to be in Morocco during this time, it’s probably easiest to stay in one spot for those days. Greet locals with a celebratory “Mbruk L’eid” and you may even be invited to sample a freshly grilled kebab!

Exchange Student Experience in Morocco

Exchange Student Experience in Morocco
 Four days is rarely enough time to fully experience an entire country, and this certainly holds true for diverse Morocco.  But four days is plenty of time to get an impression and appreciate cultural differences and similarities.  I traveled to Morocco from Madrid, Spain, for a brief tour earlier this month, and the depth of cultural knowledge I gained far exceeded any preconceived expectations.  While I found myself a bit outside my comfort zone at times, specifically in situations involving Turkish toilets, those feelings were exactly what pushed me to broaden my horizons and try to see the world from the perspectives of the various people I encountered.


My experience was unique in that I went with fourteen girlfriends and chose a tour that emphasized cultural immersion over sightseeing.  We jumped right into the cultural exchange with our first stop after arriving by ferry into Tanger: coffee with three religious women who were studying for advanced English degrees.  The most striking difference between us was, of course, physical: they each wore a colorful hijab and loose, conservative clothing, while the clothes we had deemed “modest” were decidedly less so.  

The conversation first turned to the status of women in Moroccan society and the customs they adhere to regarding their relations with men.  While all three were religious, they did have varying opinions on whether or not it was okay to date men before getting married.  One woman had met her husband because he was a friend of her brother’s since childhood, another said she wanted to marry traditionally and not date her future husband prior to marriage, and the third seemed to indicate that it wasn’t a bad idea to spend some time with a man before committing herself to marry him, although her parents had had an arranged marriage and were still living together happily.  

We made our way to Rabat later that day, and the people we met there confirmed the existence of traditional rules for dating, though their personal experiences were all very different.  Uidet, a seventeen-year-old schoolgirl whose family opened their home to me and two friends for two nights, confessed in the broken English she had learned entirely from watching American television that she had a secret boyfriend of three years.  While her mother did not appear to be very religiously observant—she did not put on a hijab when a male friend came to the house—she clearly maintained traditional views on marriage and dating.

Casablanca Old Moroccan House

The next day, we met up with male university students for a cultural tour of their hometown, which included some time in the market and a trip to a hookah bar.  Judging by the fact that it was the same hookah bar multiple groups of friends were brought to the previous night by their host families’ teenagers, it appeared to be one of the few hangouts of its kind for young Moroccans.  Of course, there was no alcohol either: a striking difference from the establishments most American college students frequent.  The boys we met appeared very americanized, and as we relaxed on couches around the hookah, our conversation was much less foreign than the one with the religious girls had been.  Even so, one of the boys told us that his sister had just gotten married to a second cousin in a relatively arranged marriage.  She was thirty, which he surprisingly said was not an abnormally high age for marriage in Morocco, and had basically just decided it was time to be married and had the union arranged by her family.  He said that he was planning on dating before marriage, however, and that many men find that their parents are relatively open to the idea of their sons finding girlfriends and it’s the girls who have to hide their relationships.  This semi-covert world of dating and hookah smoking is vastly different from the largely explicit sexual and substance-related culture we are used to in the United States and especially Europe.

Yet, despite the vast cultural differences, and even stark disagreements, we found in our encounters with Moroccan youth, we managed to find common ground drinking sweet Moroccan tea, ambling through the outdoor markets, going to the hamam (bathhouse), getting henna tattoos, and digging into a huge pot of couscous, and everyone I met did their best to help me feel welcome and comfortable in their home country.  

Moroccan Fresh Snails Jemma El Fna

Crossing back over the border from Morocco to the Spanish enclave of Ceuta, which has one of the largest income disparities of any border, really made me realize what a different world I had just visited.  As drab, dingy shacks and menacing, barbed-wire-topped walls faded into seaside villas and spotless, colorful cafes in a matter of minutes on foot, reality hit me straight in the face.  The Moroccan students we had met might never get the chance to use the European languages they were mastering in their respective European countries because it is nearly impossible for the average Moroccan to get even a tourist’s visa, let alone immigrate to Europe.  The closest Uidet will probably get to the United States is watching American films in her living room.  As I breezed through border security, I felt lucky to have been able to experience a new culture and learn from the Moroccan people, if only for a few days.

List of Morocco Festivals


Morocco Festivals


Theater Festival

Where: Casablanca. When:March

Cotton festival

Where: Beni Mellal. When:March

Rose festival

Where: Mgnoua. When:May

Folk festival

Where: el badi palace, Marrakesh. When: June

Cherry festival

Where: Sefrou. When: June

Camel festival

Where: Guelmim. When: June

Honey festival

Where: Immouzer. When: July

Water festival

Where: Tetouan. When: July

International art festival

Where: Asilah. When: August

Sidi Allal festival

Where: Chefchaoun. When: August

Moulay Abdessalem festival

Where: El Jadida. When: August

African Music festival

Where: Tiznit. When: August

Apple festival

Where: immouzer. When: August

Fantasia festival

Where: Meknes . When: September

Moulay Driss II festival

Where: Fes. When: September

Sidi Ahmed Ou Moussa  festival

Where: Agadir. When: September

Marriage festival

Where: Imilchil. When: September

Date festival

Where: Erfoud. When: October

Music festival

Where: Essaouira - Mogador. When: October

Olive festival

Where: Rif. When: December

Almond Tree festival

Where: Tafraoute. When: February

Marrakesh Film festival

Where: Marrakesh. When: November

National Film festival

Where: Tangier. When: December

Moroccan Marriage

In Morocco the marriage celebration includes several well organized ceremonies that can last from 3 days to a week, depending on the family and region of Morocco. These festivities are always the ideal opportunity to bring Moroccan families together and show the richness of Moroccan customs and traditions through clothing, art, music or cuisine which is represented via a cocktail of delicious dishes.

Moroccan women still attend in the traditional ways.  The wedding dress is usually a caftan, a sort of long robe made of silk, satin, chiffon, silk or other rich fabrics, and covered with a jacket.  The dress is often open on the bottom and may have embroidery or sequined details, and may be retained by a wide belt at the waist that adds a stunning touch to the moment.
Pre-Marriage Customs
The future bride and groom start formalities for the marriage about a year prior to the celebrations. Sometimes it is a simple agreement signed in the presence of witnesses and Adoul (Moroccan notary), but generally an act of formal marriage commitment is established in the presence of the family members of the couple. The husband is required to give gifts to his bride. Some gifts may be symbolic, such as sugar, which represents a happy life, or milk for purity or basic gifts which could include dates, water, orange flower and henna. They also include the engagement ring and the alliance. Gifts vary depending on the region of Morocco, and could range from jewelry and bolts of fabric, to caftans, shoes, handbags or perfume.  These gifts are typically arranged in very large flat silver colored container and covered with a conical lid which is similar to the form of a big Tagine.

Two days before the wedding, customs require the bride to go to traditional Moroccan Hamam, sauna with her girl friends and relatives.  It is considered as an act of purification, and accompanied by beautiful traditional songs performed by her friends.

The next ceremony will take place using the famous Moroccan Henna.  Henna comes from a plant that can reach up to one meter in height, and its leaves produce yellow or red dyes which are often used for body paint to create different shapes and designs.  At the ceremony a "Hennaya" , a professional Moroccan Henna artist, draws symbolic motifs on the hands and feet of the bride as a lucky charm for her new life. The brides friends and relatives who are involved in marriage will also get to have henna.
Moroccan Wedding Day
On the day of the wedding the ceremony begins with song and dance, the tradition of Islam demands the ceremony begin by reading Koranic verses and songs in praise of the prophet. Next the guests gather in a large room.  The couple follow and the bride, dressed in a white caftan with matching jewelry, heads to a large chair "the Amariya” along with her groom.  Four strong men carry the Amaria around the wedding room, so every guest gets to see and wish the couple happiness and good luck.  After a few minutes of touring the large guest room, accompanied by music from a live traditional band, the couple is descended from Amariya to sit in two comfortable chairs strategically centered in the room, where wedding guests get to have their pictures taken with the couple.

Throughout the ceremony, the bride changes outfits, adorning a selection superb caftons justifying the reputation of Moroccan marriages. The bride can wear as many as seven different outfits, with the last wardrobe change, in general, a magnificent white wedding dress.

Neggafates: Moroccan wedding Master Planners
Moroccan bride during a Moroccan traditional wedding

The bride is surrounded by "Neggafates" who are wedding master planners, since no wedding ceremony can occur without their presence. Their main task is to help with traditional Moroccan dresses, make up, jewelry, hair styling etc. Neggafates assist Moroccan couple to look their best in their wedding ceremony combining know-how about Moroccan wedding, style and fashion taste with an adequate traditional touch.

Moroccan weddings are also known for the variety of exotic Moroccan dishes, unique ingredients, and dedication by Moroccan chefs to pull them together.  Different Moroccan dishes are served to wedding guests including pastille (a pie in puff pastry stuffed with a fricassee of pigeon or chicken, almonds, sugar and cinnamon), Mashwi (baby lamb), Tajine (stew meat with prunes and almonds), couscous, traditional pastries and Moroccan cookies all served with traditional mint tea. The guests dance from time to time to the rhythm of music, chat and connect with other guests and relatives. The ceremony usually ends at around 5am.
Traditional Moroccan band

At the end of the wedding the couple are taken on a car parade ( a parade of  guest and family cars) through the streets and neighborhoods, stopping at specific spots (local beaches or parks) to take pictures with friends before the couple head to the house of the groom.   In some regions of Morocco, on arriving at her new home, the bride is welcomed by her mother-in-law who will offer her dates and milk as a sign of welcome and affection.