Insider’s Chefchaouen (Chaouen) Travel Guide

In Chefchaouen (often abbreviated as “Chaouen”), you’ll be welcomed to one of the most chill, laid back towns in all of Morocco. Long famous on the backpacker trek, this small mountain town is now really blossoming into its own as a travel destination. Chaouen is far enough off the beaten track to dissuade most tourists, which makes it quiet enough for those visitors brave enough to venture to the edge of the Rif Mountains. The narrow, Chaouen-blue pedestrian streets give ways to wide squares and breathtaking views over the lush valley below.

Chaouen is a respite of quiet after the busy medinas of Fez and Marrakech. However, it has enough of what is quintessentially Moroccan to be of interest to travelers looking for something a bit more authentic. Nature lovers will enjoy the easily accessible day hikes into the mountains. And shoppers will enjoy the hassle-free boutique shops for everything from hand-spun pottery to artisanal soaps made right in the city.

Whether you spend a couple of days wandering the clean medina streets, enjoying a hike through the Rif Mountains, or just want to relax with a book and a fresh mint tea, like most visitors to Chefchaouen, you will walk away having experienced something magical.

Map of Chefchaouen Medina
Here is a map of the Chefchaouen. We include a similar map in each itinerary packet that travelers receive before their tour takes place with us at Journey Beyond Travel.

Chefchaouen Morocco map

Notes from the History of Chefchaouen
When you come into Chefchaouen, take a good look at its placement between two tall mountains peaks. This is where Chefchaouen takes the root of its name. “Chef”, a derivation of the Arabic word “to look” and “Chaouen,” meaning “antlers” or “horns.” Between the two protective horns of the looming Rif Mountains, Chefchaouen has long been a strategic mountain town. It has a storied history that began shortly after the Portuguese conquest of Morocco in 1471 AD. A local tribal leader, known as Abu Youma, needed a protected, secret location from where he could launch attacks against the Portuguese. Abu Youma died in one of the battles and his cousin, Ali Ben Rachid, took over custodianship of the nascent city.

Right at the end of the 15th century, Ali Ben Rachid began moving his family and friends from Granada (in modern day Spain) into Chaouen. By the middle of the 16th century, an established route was established for those seeking refuge from the Spanish Inquisition. This new immigration greatly increased the size of the city. The refugees brought with them their knowledge of art and architecture, as they did in larger cities such as Fez and Marrakech. All of this had an influence on the look of the city. However, it wasn’t until the Sultan commanded the creation of the mellah (Jewish neighborhood) in 1760 AD that the special light blue, now associated with the old city of Chefchaouen, came to be used.

Chefchaouen Travel Guide: What To Do
Wander the Medina — Chefchaouen boasts one of the most enjoyable, funky medinas in all of Morocco. Though trekking up and down the hillside can make for some sore legs at the end of the day, luckily there are plenty of cafés to plop down and recharge. Unlike the medina of Marrakech or the Kasbahs of Tangier and Rabat, foreigners haven’t really been able to purchase old houses and convert them to upscale riads so many of the local populace still actually lives in the Medina. The people of Chefchaouen are, for the most part, really pleasant and foreigners can stroll through the blue walled medina without being harassed by touts and venders too much. Most of the shop keepers have a relaxed attitude and will not hassle you. Children play in the streets and, unlike Fez, they will generally not ask you for money. If anything, the children of Chefchaouen might ask you to play with them, which is not a bad way to spend an afternoon. While wandering around, take a look at some of the placards which give information on some of the long, torrid history of this great city.

Ras el-Maa — Located outside of the medina walls, to the east, “Ras el Maa” (or “Head of the Water”) is a small (slightly overrated by guidebooks) waterfall. Many locals gather here during the hot months to cool off and, oftentimes, to do laundry. There is a small café nearby

to relax with a coffee or tea, which is pleasant, particularly in the hot summer months.

Hammam — Sitting just off the main square, Place Uta el-Hammam, two hammams of interest for those looking for a real Moroccan experience in cleanliness. The public hammam, used by many of the local men and women, is located just across the square from the large mosque, Jama’a Kabir, next to the Pension Castellana. The times allowed for men and women differ and changes regularly. Historically, Chefchaouen, like many other Moroccan cities, had hammams for men and women. Today, many hammams share a space and have separate times for the two genders to bathe. You can expect to pay about 25 dirhams, but you will need to bring plastic sandals, soap, a shower scrub and a towel.

For a more luxurious experience, head to the Art du bien-être (Art of Good Living), located one street west off the Place Uta el-Hammam, behind the mosque. Though not traditional, this is a more upscale “spa” with massages, foot soaks, facials, and exfoliations. This business operates with a local women’s cooperative to create all of their all-natural products. Many of them are for sale in the entryway. Reservations are required for the hammam. However, they can often accommodate same-day requests. Expect to pay 100 dhs or so for a facial. 150 dhs for a hammam. And 250 dhs or more on a more “full spa” experience.

Chefchaouen, Morocco a Child runs through the rainy streets

Souvenir Shopping in Chefchaouen
One of our favorite place to shop is the Hat Man. This funky shop is located toward the top of the medina on the main thoroughfare, Rue Targui on your way uphill from the main square. Hand knitted hats are available in many shapes, sizes and various levels of ridiculousness. There is a sign that reads “Hat Man.” You can’t miss it.

For some incredible spices and artisanal soaps, stop by El Jabon Arte Con La Abuela (Soap Art with Grandma) on Zanka Targhi, just a few steps up from the central Place Uta el-Hammam. Soaps in delicious combinations — such as chocolate, thyme and lemon — are on offer here as well as fresh cumin, fragrant saffron, and other spices from Morocco.

Dar Salam on Rue Taylia has a wide variety of hand-carved Moroccan furniture and a wide selection of handspan and woven wool carpets from different regions of the country. Hassan, the owner, will be happy to tell you a bit about the chunky Berber jewelry, the different tribes who still weave carpets and other pieces of Moroccan history and culture. There are no hard-sells here. Just a tea if you want it and some friendly chit-chat.



Doorway in Chefchaouan Morocco

Trekking and Hiking in Chefchaouen
With its location at the foot of the Rif Mountains, surrounded by beautiful forests and gurgling rivers, Chefchaouen is ideal for those looking for to get out an enjoy a bit of the outdoors. There is a good mix of casual trails and more challenging trails, offering up an experience for all fitness types. Here are a couple of short trails to consider:

Lookout Point – If you exit the medina and walk uphill, toward the Hotel Atlas (one of the largest buildings in the city, you can’t miss it), there is an easily found trail that takes you up the hill toward a beautiful lookout point towering over Chefchaouen and the surrounding mountains. If you want, you can continue to hike deeper into the mountains, but remember to pack a water bottle and a bite to eat.

Targa – For another short hike out of the medina, visit nearby nearby Targa. Located on the hill just south of the medina, this old castle and mosque dates from the 1200s. The Spanish rebuilt the minaret. Though the entire mosque has been restored, it is not yet open for worshippers. However, visitors are welcome to climb the minaret and enjoy the views over Chefchaouen and the valley below. The surrounding patio is a great spot for a picnic.

For a longer trek through the Rif, Journey Beyond Travel has a great relationship with Gite Talassemtane who arranges trekking in Chefchaouen. You can feel free to email the founder Fatima at fatima.habte@yahoo.com or call her directly at (+212) (0) 672 743 347. These guided treks will take you to some beautiful mountainous scenery and you are guaranteed to meet some wonderful people along the way.



Chefchaouen Travel Guide: Where To Eat
Jasmine Café Teteria — Opened in the summer of 2017, this fresh café offers an ingenious blend of foods from around the world, including crowd favorites such as spring rolls, veggie pizza and ramen noodles. Don’t miss out on the chicken and cheese briouats, homemade following the original recipe of the mother of the store owner, Youssef. Iced lattes, a summertime necessity, are thankfully available to go. A new café that gets at the international spirit of Chefchaouen like no other. 151 Avenue Hassan I (Lmdakka). Open daily, 8am – 10pm.

Casa Hassan — Come for the panoramic terrace views but stick around for some of the tasty tajines in Chaouen! Tajines are thrown over an open fire, adding a certain smokiness to the saffron-rubbed chicken and lemon deliciousness. Vegetarians will be ecstatic with the veggie pastilla, a phyllo dough stuffed with finely chopped veggies and spices. Indoor seating is thankfully non-smoking. 22 Rue Targui, +212 (0)5 39 98 61 53, www.casahassan.com. Open daily for lunch and dinner, reservations recommended.

Casa Aladdin — With incredible views over the Place Uta el-Hammam, shrouded in shabby chic blue and orange decor, this is truly the house of Aladdin. Vegetarians will be thrilled to find a veggie bastilla on order, delicious layers of p

eppers, tomatoes, and others veggies wrapped carefully in crunchy philou-dough. The anchovy tajine, a northern speciality, makes for a tasty lunch or dinner. Rue Tangier, +212 (0)5 39 98 90 71, open daily for lunch and dinner, reservations recommended.

Lala Mesouda  — For homemade Moroccan cuisine, it might not get any better in Morocco than Said Bakkali’s tucked away gem along the upper slopes of the Chefchaouen medina. Besides the exquisitely prepared tajines and a Friday couscous, ordinary staples for any Moroccan restaurant, the chefs at Lala Mesouda dig deeper into traditional Moroccan cuisine served at home. They include salads such as Baqula (a cooked, spinach-like green) and Chardon (cardoon cooked in olive oil), as well as Sfarjel (quince and beef) and ox penis, slow cooked for the more adventurous diners. Avenue Hassan I, Quartier M’Daka +212 (0)5 39 89 91 33, reservations recommended.

Restaurant Populaire — Need a quick bite? Grab a mouthwatering bocadillo from this locally famous sandwich joint. The “Tangier” is almost always on offer, a mouthwatering slow cooked strip of tender beef seasoned with garlic, onion and cumin and layered in a sharp yogurt sauce. Vegetarians can find sautéed mushroom caps to stuff in their baguette sandwich. Rue Elkharrazin, next to Bab Sour, +212 (0)6 60 26 11 28, open daily, 9am-11pm or so, no reservations needed.

Discover Laâyoune

Laayoune is the largest town in Western Sahara, the desert region south of Morocco’s Anti Atlas Mountains. Occupied by Spain until 1974, Western Sahara remains in legal limbo as a disputed territory. After the “Green March” of November 1975—when 350,000 Moroccans marched across the border into the Sahara—a conflict broke out between the Moroccans and the Polisario Front, a group that demanded independence for its native Sahrawi people. Talks have been underway between Morocco and Polisario since a UN-sponsored cease fire in 1991.

The town tends to serve as a stopover point for travelers going between Mauritania and southern Morocco or for those on the way to try kite surfing at Dakhla’s desert lagoon.  From Marrakech, it’s a 16-hour plus bus ride to Laayoune. Although you’ll be driving through desert, don’t expect spectacular scenery like you’ll find at Erg Chebbi; this part of the Sahara is all hamada—flat, rocky desert.

Bus companies that serve Laayoune include CTM, Supratours and SATAS. You can also book bus tickets from Marrakech as part of a combined ONCF train fare. Destinations that connect with Laayoune include Dakhla (9 hours), Agadir/Inezgane (10.5 hours), Goulmime (6.5 hours) and Tan Tan (3 hours). From Laayoune, you can find grand taxis (share taxis) going to Tan Tan and Goulmime, but you may need to wait a few hours until the seats fill up and the taxi is ready to leave.

Royal Air Maroc operates daily flights to Laayoune from Casablanca, and flights run four times a week between Laayoune and Dakhla.

Laayoune’s most interesting facet is its quirkiness. You can visit the colonial Spanish church where many UN workers now meet to worship, or spend an afternoon chatting with soldiers over a cup of mint tea. Check out the main square at Place du Mechouar, watch a match at the football stadium to the northwest of town or visit the aviary at Colline des Oiseaux. For women, a fun activity is shopping for malhafas, the colorful sari-like garments worn by Sahrawi women.

Finding high- and mid-range accommodation in Laayoune can be tricky, as many hotels are block booked by UN personnel. Some have come to resemble mini fortresses with barbed wire surrounding the premises. On the high end, try Hotel al-Massira, Sahara Line or Hotel Parador, a colonial era throwback complete with bar and swimming pool. One mid-range option in Place Dchira is Hotel Zemmour, and budget travelers can look for cheapies around Souk ez-Zaj and Souk el-Jamal.

Dozens of affordable cafes and restaurants can be found in and around Place Dchira. A favorite with the international community is Pizzaria la Madone, a restaurant that serves up freshly baked, thin-crust pizzas as well as pasta dishes. If you’re craving authentic Chinese food, head over to House of Chen on Avenue Talha Bnou Zoubeir.

About 14 miles south of Laayoune is a large beach at Foum el Oued. Buses run from Laayoune to Foum el Oued during the summer months, and during the rest of the year you can hire a grand taxi to take you there. Campsites and several hotels and rental villas are available at the beach.: 

Laayoune, town, northern Western Sahara, 8 miles (13 km) inland from the Atlantic Ocean, situated in the geographic region of Saguia el-Hamra.

Want to discover Laâyoune? There are a thousand ways to do it. At the edge of the Atlantic Ocean and at the gates of the Sahara, Laayoune "the city of sands" in which the sand beach and the desert sand meet, welcomes its visitors in a natural splendid and varied setting. In less than a century, Laayoune,has set itself as the capital of the Sahara region, has developed rapidly, becoming the first economic and administrative pole of the Saharan Provinces.
Laâyoune is the largest city in the Moroccan Sahara. It is located on the Atlantic coast, 500 km south of Agadir and 400 km west of Tindouf, on the road to Dakhla.
It is controlled and administered by Morocco since 1975. It has a population of 200,000 inhabitants. Do not miss the beach of Foum El Oued in Laayoune-Plage: Located on the edge of the town of Laayoune, it extends to the Atlantic Ocean, the Souke dromedaries: This popular district is experiencing intense economic activity , By the abundance of shops, by an extraordinary craftsmanship, and by its large market, the National Cultural Center: Located in the place of Abdelaziz, this center includes a music room as well as a large reading room.
The books contained there are translated into several languages, including Arabic, French, English and Spanish. You can also visit Place du Méchouar: It is a very large square decorated with four magnificent monuments at each corner of the place. Laayoune took advantage of the development of the southern provinces as well as numerous investments.

morocco flag upside down meaning

The red background on the Moroccan flag represents hardiness, bravery, strength and valour, while the green represents love, joy, wisdom, peace and hope; it also represents the color of Islam and the pentagram the seal of Solomon.


This is something that always made me mad as I'm a huge fan of flags and their meanings and designs. I've already seen numerous times how some hotels or sport clubs just hang a flag upside down. But that's still mild compared to this! The Moroccan embassy in Amman has its flag upside down! Although it's not very obvious but it made me furious. What do you think should I do? Leave it at this or should I try to tell someone there?


"Flying an American flag upside down is not necessarily meant as political protest. The practice has its origin in a distress signal; displaying a flag in this manner is "a signal of dire distress in instances of extreme danger to life or property"

Flying national flags upside down is an internationally recognized symbol of distress when used on ships, and presumably could be interpreted likewise on land.

Of course, the flag needs to be asymmetrical top to bottom for it to work.

Souk El Agadir, Morocco

The Souk el Ahad market is a great place for the Agadir tourist to visit. The souk is the third biggest market in North Africa, after Fez and Cairo medinas and stocks a vast range of essential items for local people and has large amounts of fresh fruit and vegetables on sale, along with large mounds of fragrant herbs and spices, along with the standard tourist fare of babouches, leatherware etc that tourists may consider to buy.

The Souk is surprisingly clean and although you do get the usual encouragement to come into shops it's not too intense, unlike, for example, the Khan al Khalili souk in Cairo.

Many of the stalls have lovely ranges of Moroccan lamps, silverware and wooden hard-carved items which you can buy and there are a lot of genuine artisan goods like beautiful ceramics and traditionally-produced goods.

Souk Al Ahad is an essential place to visit, as it gives the visitor a real flavour of the country, and allows one to interact with the local people.

Upon arrival a guide may attach himself to you, which can be useful, but on the other hand, he may have arrangements in place with certain sellers which may mean that you may end up paying more for an item than if you would have gone on your own. This "guide" commission system is universal in souks, with a mark up of anything up to around 300%. If you have a degree of confidence, you don't need a guide at all. By going alone, it will give you the opportunity to hone your bargaining skills and get the satisfaction that YOU did it - you bought the item at a reasonable price!

Whenever going to the souk, flag down a petit taxi, say "Salam al Akoum" and the driver should then put the meter on. If he does not, point to it, if he refuses, you can get out and try another taxi. Tell the taxi driver "Bab Hamsa" which means Gate 5 in Arabic. The entrance at Gate 5 will bring you into the souk at the bottom end, where all of the spice and vegetable sellers are. You can then weave your way up to the top of the souk, alley by alley, until you arrive at the top end, which will be Gates 8, 9 or 10.

All in all would strongly recommend Souk El Had as a great place to visit for a couple of hours, well worth visiting.




Visited in early Jan 2013. The above comments are accurate. Now this is a great place for photo opportunities but be discreet othewise you will be charged for every photo you take. The presentation of some stalls is beautiful and rival any shop front in Oxford Street London. Particularly enjoy the herb and spice stalls. Their presentation is a work of art..

 Now something is missing from the Souk. There is a downmarket cafe but it would deter tourists. Tourists  like to sit and people watch. so a more appealing cafe so the tourist can sip afternoon tea and eating lovely moroccan pastries o would be good.  Tourist need to be protected migrant street vendors (not the stall holders). In a separate cafe the tourist could relax and watch the world go buy. Would the municipality please note that most european tours gives an hour in the market and most tourists need only 30 minutes to walk around it. Therefore tourists would spend 30 minutes inside a cafe with a glass front watching locals going about their daily life. The cafe location must be inside a busy part of the soulk with good views.

 God Bless The Souk manager and may he think about this proposal.  By the way most european tours start at gate 9 for obvious reasons asthe hunt is for souvenirs notbegetables.

Description of Moroccan Caftan

The Moroccan Caftan has been at the spotlight at the «Morocco in Abu Dhabi», an event currently held in Abu Dhabi.

Moroccan designers were invited to the event, expected to wrap up on April 30, to showcase their creations, focusing on the Moroccan Caftan. Models dressed in Caftans walked the runaway, highlighting the latest trends.

«The Caftan has been passed down through many generations. This year, we decided to focus on the traditional Moroccan arts of sewing and embroidery», designer Sofia Ben Ibrahim told Gulf Today.

Ben Brahim is among the Moroccan designers who were invited to the event. «The collection features innovative and trend-setting designs with both warm and cool colors and we also have some unique designs of new short-sleeved wedding dresses, in addition to other long-sleeved collection», Ben Brahim added.

Moroccan Almond Cookie and Sweets Recipes

Almonds are used extensively in cooking and baking. Here's a round-up of Moroccan cookie recipes and sweets on the site which use almonds or almond paste. Some recipes call for skinning and/or frying the almonds; be sure to familiarize yourself with the process.








Moroccan Stuffed Dates
Photo © Christine Benlafquih
The almond paste filling in these stuffed dates is flavored with orange flower water and cinnamon. If you like, add some food color for a festive presentation.


Kaab el Ghazal
Photo © Christine Benlafquih
One of Morocco's most famous sweets, Kaab el Ghazal literally translates to "gazelle's ankles," but in English, they're more commonly called Gazelle's Horns. Either way, the names make clear reference to the cookie's characteristic crescent shape. The thin pastry dough conceals a tender almond paste filling flavored with orange flower water and cinnamon.


Moroccan Snake Pastry
She Paused 4 Thought/Flickr - CC BY-NC-ND 2.0
Named for its snake-like coil shape, this baked Moroccan almond snake pastry is stuffed with homemade almond paste. A lovely presentation for special occasions.


Chewy Moroccan Macaroons
SensorSpot/E+/Getty Images
Chewy Moroccan almond macaroons (Nancy-macaron-style) cookies with rustic good flavor. Quite easy to prepare using storebought or homemade almond meal.


Almond Baklawa (Baklava)
No pistachios here–Moroccan almond baklava (or baklawa) makes good use of almonds. A sticky, sweet, nutty delight.



Makrout with Almond and Honey
Photo © Christine Benlafquih
These delicious, makrout with almonds and honey are easier to make than you might think. Semolina dough is wrapped around logs of almond paste, cut into pieces and then fried. A dip in honey flavored with orange flower water adds sheen and sticky sweetness.


Moroccan Almond Briouats
Photo © Christine Benlafquih
These almond paste-filled almond briouats pastries are well-loved throughout Morocco. Although they might be offered for a casual tea time, they're most likely to be served when honoring guests, celebrating a special occasion, or when setting up a spread of food to break the fast in Ramadan.


Chebakia with Almonds
Photo © Christine Benlafquih
The dough for these chebakia with almonds are made with ground sesame and almonds, then shaped, fried and dipped in hot honey flavored with orange flower water.


Moroccan Sellou or Sfouf
Photo © Christine Benlafquih
Almonds are key to this traditional Moroccan sweet, as are browned flour, sesame seeds, anise, and cinnamon. Sellou is a popular offering during Ramadan, weddings, births, and other special occasions.


Ktefa or Milk Bastilla
Photo © Christine Benlafquih
Paper thin rounds of fried or baked warqa is layered with pastry cream and chopped fried almonds. Fresh fruit may be added. Ktefa is a very traditional and elegant dessert to offer after a Moroccan meal.

Traditional Moroccan Clothing

Morocco is the gem of the North Africa having coastlines on both the North Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea. Morocco has tremendous culture due to the inhabitation of the multi-ethnic population. While traveling to Morocco, the colors of indigenous Berber community and Jewish and Muslim populace can easily be observed. 

The country is a reasonably huge country and its every part has its own cultural recognition.All you need to know about Moroccan traditional clothing for men and women, like the authentic Kaftan - Maghrebi kaftan -, takshita and the djellaba.

Men usually only wear a djellaba on special occasions, sometimes topped with the famous Moroccan red cap, called a fez or tarbouche, and yellow leather slippers, known as baboush or belgha. The woman’s djellaba is more colorful compared to the man’s, and nowadays djellabas are becoming shorter and slimmer. There are verses of the Koran that mention the djellaba as a garment to be worn by Muslim women. A djellaba is mostly worn outside the house and there are djellabas for every day as well as for special occasions.



The kaftan refers to the Moroccan garment that looks like the djellaba but without a hood. The origins of the kaftan go back to the Ottoman Empire, as it was one of the finest Ottoman clothing worn by the elite. Like other garments, it has gone through changes over the years.

A Berber woman in her traditional dress

The Moroccan society is not conservative because Morocco is a peaceful and tourist friendly country. Morocco has no particular rules and regulation about the clothing but the Moroccans have kept alive the custom to wear the traditional dress of Morocco.

A random capture of the Moroccons in their traditional dresses

Moroccans are overall a stylish and smart nation and they prefer to dress up with fashionable and impressive clothing. Both men and women wear a same traditional attire which is called djellaba; a long, loose, hooded garment with full sleeves.

A Moroccon girl wearing traditional dress

The women of Morocco also wear Caftan or Kaftan which is without a hood unlike the djellaba. This dress is particularly decorated with the typical woman embroidery upon the dress openings and arms. Kaftan is usually worn on the festive occasions and wedding ceremonies by the Moroccan women.

The Moroccon bride in her traditional wedding dress 

Another traditional cloak made with a delicate fabric and mostly in white color is known as “Haik” which is used by the Moroccan village women. In addition to that Gandora is also used by the Moroccan women which have heavy and fancy stitching and adornments.

For all of the Moroccan women the bright colored silks and other dainty fabrics are favorites. The craftsmen and tailors apply their special skills to make the women dresses attractive and graceful. The women of high class also use a traditional belt which has golden embroidery and exquisite decorations along the edges.

A Moroccon man wearing the traditional outfit and Fez