Morocco Spring


It has been nearly two years since the "Arab Spring" and, while we hoped for a peaceful resolution, the summer we envisioned never came. Instead, the Middle East has erupted in new turmoil, oppression and aggression so intense it feels like winter again.

It's hard to remember the joy I felt in 2011 as I watched people pour into the city squares in Tunisia, Egypt, Libya and Syria to protest against their governments and rally for freedoms we Americans consider our birthright. Like so many others, I naively hoped their protests would signal the birth of democracy in a region not known for granting freedoms to its citizens.

But, instead of celebrating free will, I've watched chaos and killings in Syria as civil war tears that nation apart. Most recently, I've feared for the world's safety as Israel and Gaza again engage in their dangerous, biblical battle.


The fate of Israel drives home the Arab Spring because we are politically, philosophically and ethically committed to its survival as a country, a democracy and witness to history. As we have seen in Syria, in addition to the awful loss of life, entire chapters of humankind are erased when treasured archaeological sites are sacrificed to war.

These warring nations make the promise of democracy in the Middle East and North Africa seem like an impossible dream. Yet, like Don Quixote, I still have hope. I was fortunate earlier this year to be one of 200 women leaders from 30 nations to visit Morocco for the International Women's Forum conference. The meeting, which focused on the aftermath of the Arab uprisings, gave us a rare opportunity to learn how Arab women leaders, some of whom are raising future leadership, view those events and their future.

Sadly, experts from around the region, including ambassadors, professors, politicians, journalists, human-rights activists, business leaders and representatives of faith predicted many of the grim events that, a few months later, made headlines in our newspapers.

What I didn't expect was how their insights would lead me to contemplate the perilous state of our own democracy. Over the past six months, I've often thought how men and women in the Arab world are willing to die for the right to speak out loud and true. In contrast, our right to free speech has spiraled into spin, where hyperbole tramples truth and facts are measured in Pinocchio noses.

We heard stories of ordinary people who performed extraordinary deeds while creating shout-outs for democracy. Yet we also saw how failure to plan effectively ensured what has transpired. Almost two years after the Arab uprisings, the ruling party in Tunisia still cannot agree on how to incorporate the role of Islam into its new constitution, and although Egyptians won the right to hold free elections, moderates could not support either candidate.

The one exception is Morocco, which is well-served by a tradition of tolerance and an enlightened monarch. During the spring of 2011, 48-year-old Mohammed VI seized the moment to institute a new constitution that values and protects human rights. Because of his decisions, divorce is legal, girls are encouraged to attend school and women are becoming an economic force in this country.

It's tempting to suggest that Morocco be the model for all Arab nations. But this is a complex region where no one-size caftan fits all. Multicultural and monarchy-led Morocco is Arabic; it's not Islamic. Turks understand this well since their country tilted toward democracy for years but now has morphed into a more traditional Muslim mind-set, with all the attendant challenges to freedoms.

Those Arab leaders who addressed us readily acknowledged that their individual paths to freedom will not be smooth or quick. But they were equally convinced that freedom is their destination.

Freedom inspired two young Libyan women to courageously publish a weekly newsletter, "From Tripoli," to alert the world to events inside their country. It compelled a young Tunisian woman to organize a group of female lawyers and activists who are successfully defending women's rights and freedoms. It inspired Mohammed Al Abdallah, a Syrian human-rights activist and television journalist, to risk his life as the media face who is challenging his government.

The promise of freedom motivates Egyptian activist Ahmed Naguib, who mobilized more than 30,000 people to congregate in Tahrir Square in 2011. "I am not as optimistic and hopeful as I was," he admitted, but then vowed, "We will never go backwards."

It's easy to forget, awash in our angry, 24/7 news cycle, that our democracy was also born from strong, clear and inclusive words that were coupled with brave actions As Ceren Kenar, a young Turkish graduate student who is leading a movement to promote democracy by bringing Turks and Arabs together, declared, "I believe in the power of words. I believe in the power of actions."

It's no surprise that the leaders of the Arab Spring are so well-educated. Thomas Jefferson observed, "An educated citizenry is a vital requisite for our survival as a free people."

Of course, the question remains: Can Ceren Kenar and other Arab leaders succeed in building new democracies? Anything is possible if obstacles can be turned into stepping-stones, but I believe it will take centuries to grow the grass-roots systems needed to sustain substantive change.

Just look at us. Our own brand of freedom is messy, and we've been at it for more than 200 years. We are a beacon for the world, yet we still don't have it entirely right. We pledge allegiance and fly our flag, but we allow words like freedom, democracy and patriot to be co-opted by political agendas. We say we care about living in a democracy, yet many of us don't bother to vote.

While we wait for the Arab Summer, we can honor the spirit of that Arab Spring by launching an American Autumn.

This movement, timed to coincide with our election cycle, would nurture an informed citizenry that values democracy by encouraging people to learn and listen more than they talk or tweet or shriek. Given time, the American Autumn campaign could develop a core of educated, thoughtful voters who would make decisions based on truth and fact.

Imagine the discussions! Smart. Civil. Passionate. True, it might take several seasons to build this conversation because our overpackaged, sound-bite driven, billionaire-sponsored political campaigns do not encourage investigation or introspection. But if we do it right, we'll make Thomas Jefferson proud.






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Partying Hard in a Caftan



Set-up marriage throne.
My dear readers, I apologize for the long absence.  I can only blame a combination of things, including a busy schedule full of research, moving, traveling, and laziness.  But here it is: the long anticipated post-Eid entry.  No animals were harmed in the writing of this post.  I promise.
Monday, I bid adieu to my host family.  It was actually a tough parting for me: I had to reign back tears several time throughout the week preceding my departure.  (And this is a pretty weird thing for me: I don’t cry easily.  Nevertheless, I’m pretty sure Soukaina started to think I was crazy after she caught me sniffling a couple of times.)
After two months of living with them, I’d started seeing them as a real second family.  I loved having a quirky big sister, a goofy (and shameless flirt of a) brother, a cute, old baba, and one of the most welcoming mama’s in the whole of Morocco.  But, come Sunday, I had to pack my things and move a whole five minutes outside of the medina kadima.  Now I’m living in a cozy flat with four friends that’s costing me about $4 per day, with a terrace that has one of the best views of the city.  Be jealous.
My stay with my Moroccan family certainly ended with a bang.  On Sunday night they held Soukaina’s engagement party.  Have I mentioned how big these things are?  This is the second one I’ve been to, the first one I attended being held in September.  This one, though, was bigger: over 50 people were packed in the small house that I had been living in for the previous two months.  My family had spent the entire week getting ready for it; prepping the ingredients for the pastilla and cleaning every square inch of the house.  Aunts, cousins, and other female family members came to help out Soukaina and hejja.  All day Saturday and Sunday, women were busy setting up the decorations.  Even my brother and his friend helped out a bit.  Saturday night, a woman came and did henna on the hands of female family members and close friends.  I got my right hand done up in flowers and swirls.  It was pretty.
When the party finally started, rented chairs lined the perimeter of the central room, and all the women, dressed to the nines in caftans made out of silk and velvet, parked themselves here.  Men went off to the side, in the room where I normally slept.  In the middle of the main room was set up an elevated white love seat that reminded me of a throne.  This was to be where Soukaina and her fiancé sat.  Meanwhile, the family reassigned Amine’s bedroom to be Soukaina’s dressing room.  She was to go through three different outfits that night.
Initially, there was a lot of awkward sitting and chatting while we waited for Soukaina to get ready and for her fiancé to arrive.  I hung out with Molly, another American student staying in Rabat with SIT.  A little before six, Soukaina came out in her first outfit, looking absolutely gorgeous.  A lot of us then went outside to welcome the fiancé and his family and friends.  They arrived in style: following them was a Moroccan band playing loud, festive Issawa music and three large, decorative tagines filled with presents for Soukaina and her family.  All of them came in, further packing the tiny house, and dancing ensued.
Dancing in Morocco has made me realize how little I utilize my hips back in the states.  Couchar and Shayma, two of Soukaina’s friends, dragged me onto the dance floor and I was able to get a little bit of some hip action, but it was nothing compared to the finesse with which they moved.  Shakira herself would say that their hips don’t lie.  I don’t think I embarrassed myself too badly, though.  The trick is to cock your hip out a bit and move it forwards and backwards—if you’re feeling fancy, twirl your hands around a bit and throw in a turn or two.
The singer in the band certainly knew how to work a crowd.  He sang traditional songs to which everyone seemed to know the words.  From time to time, he’d hold the microphone out to someone and have them finish singing a phrase.  At one point, he and the band burst into a rowdy rendition of Cheb Khaled’s “C’est La Vie,” an incredibly popular and catchy song (that I am determined to bring back to Whitman and make popular in Walla Walla).  That certainly got everyone excited.
At one point, in the night, a group of men brought out a large seat that looked like an ornate nest.  Bars were attached to it.  Soukaina was put in the nest and the men hoisted her up with the bars.  She was then carried around the room for a song or two.  It reminded me of how the bride and groom at Jewish weddings are lifted up in chairs.
At 7:30 we were served mint tea and Moroccan cookies (both of which I am going to miss quite a bit when I’m back in the states).  Women were served first, and then the men.  This was to tide us over for the actual meal, which didn’t come until after 10 (but, compared to the midnight dinners I’d been having with my family normally, this was still a pretty early dinner).  We were served pastilla (yet another Moroccan dish I can’t get enough of), a tagine of beef, apricots, and prunes, and the typical Moroccan dessert of fruit.  I was one of the last people to eat, along with my family, and by the time I had finished, many people had already filed out.  A degree of calm was finally restored to the tiny house, even though there were still plenty of extended family members hanging around, cleaning up.
I got into bed around 2 am.  I slept in the same room that I had slept in for the past two months, but tonight Soukaina was in here, as well.  We curled up and talked in the dark.
“Soukaina?”
“Yes, Leah?”
“Thank you for including me in this.”
“You had fun?”
“I had so much fun.”
“And what do you think of my husband?”
“You two were so cute!  I can tell that he loves you a lot.”
“Really?”
“Yeah.  Do you love him?”
“Yeah!  A lot!”
“Bezef (a lot)?”
“Beeeeeeezef bezef!”
Pastilla preparation 




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ZAGORA





Zagora, Morocco

ZAGORA
The red town


Zagora town is interesting mainly from its surprisinly large scale. At points you definitly do not feel that you're half the way out into Sahara. But apart from that, it is unfortunately a place quite similar to hundreds of other Moroccan towns.

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Zagora, Morocco


Hottest place in Morocco?




ZAGORA
Hottest place in Morocco?



Zagora, Morocco
Zagora, MoroccoZagora, Morocco




Zagora is another of the cities in the south of Morocco that claims to be "the hottest place in Morocco". Zagora is not terribly different from any other place out here, despite being the largest city inside a radius of 150 km.
The mountain rising up behind town centre gives it a dramatic look, and is together with the touristic road sign saying that it is 52 days to Timbuktu, the most popular photograph souvenirs.

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Zagora hotels



Chez Ali (t. 044 846258)
la Rose des Sables (t. 044 847274)
Vallee du Draa (t. 044 847210)



la Palmeraie  (t. 044 847008)



Dar el Hiba 8 km north. (t. 044 847805)
La Fibule du Draa  (t. 044 847271)
Kasbah Asmaa  (t. 044 847599)
Kasbah Tifawte (t. 044 848843)
Sirocco  (t. 044 846126)
Territoires Sud (t. 044 226695)
Zagour (t. 044 846178)



Club Reda  (t. 044 847012)
Riad Lamane  (t. 044 848389)
Tinzouline  (t. 044 847252)

Hotels and alternatives
Zagora has a very good offer of hotels in all price ranges. There is a handful of budget offers, and three 4/5-star hotels. Prices are at a normal Moroccan level.

Restaurants and alternatives
Beyond the restaurants which are found in most hotels, there is little in Zagora to make hungry travellers enthusiastic. But the hotel restaurants offer fairly interesting menus, good food and value for money.

Nightlife
There is a chance of finding activities in the larger hotels.

Change Money
Zagora has two banks, which offer normal services.

Transportation
Good connections north, both by buses and taxis. In southern direction, there is far less to choose from, but there are two departures to M'hamid per day.

Important
Zagora can be very hot during the day, but equally cold during night. Bring necessary clothes, perhaps a hat and sunglasses.



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Stara Zagora


 Stara Zagora is one of the oldest towns on the territory of present-day Bulgaria, famous equally for its rich history and fertile lands. The town lies in the geographical centre of the country. Its origin can be traced back to Thracian times (5-6nd century BC), when the town was known under the name of Beroe. Later on, after the Romans settled in (2nd century AC), the town was rebuilt and renamed into Augusta Trayana, after the then-emperor Trayan. With the arrival of Slavic tribes in those areas (6th century AC), the town appears in annals as Vereya, while under the rule of Byzantium (8th c.), it was renamed into Irinopolis.

   Its present-day name comes from the Turkish “Eski Zagra” (‘old fortress’, after the remains of the Roman settlement), given to the town by the Ottoman troops after their invasion in Bulgarian lands at the end of the 14th century. Later, the Ottomans renamed the town into Eski Zaara – zaara meaning fertile land. The latter is nothing occasional as the town’s surrounding areas are famous for their tasty produce of vegetables (especially tomatoes) and fruit trees such as apricots and peaches.

   Today, Stara Zagora is poetically nicknamed as the Town of Limes for the numerous lime trees planted along the main streets of the town and enchanting visitors with their marvelous scent in springtime. As the town was ruined to the ground during the Russian-Turkish Liberation war, after the Liberation in 1878 it was rebuilt in the fashion of the straight geometrical system. The town plan, designed by the Czech Loubor Bayer, strikes visitors with its perfectly straight and perpendicular streets and makes Stara Zagora unique in Bulgaria. Yet despite its through reconstruction, the town keeps the remains of the Augusta Trayana fortress and other sights of interest, such as Roman mosaics in 20 different places in the town. The Eski Mosk (Eski Dzamiya), built during the 15th century by the Ottoman authorities, is another place of tourist interest.



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Introducing Zagora


Introducing Zagora

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The modern town of Zagora is largely a French creation, although the oasis has always been inhabited. It was from here that the Saadians launched their expedition to conquer Timbuktu in 1591. The now famous, somewhat battered sign still reads ‘Tombouctou 52 jours’ (by camel caravan), although it took the Saadian army 135 days to get there.


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Zagora feels very much like a border town, fighting back the encroaching desert with its lush palmeraie. Though modern and largely unappealing, it does have its moments, particularly when a dust storm blows up out of the desert and the light becomes totally surreal. The spectacular Jebel Zagora, which rises up across the other side of the river Drâa, is worth climbing for the views.

Last updated: Sep 24, 2008

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RE: Automatic transmission rental cars?
by philmar 09 November 2010
Thanks Ed - looks like we'll be hiring a driver then....$$$$$$ I am flying in to and out of Casablanca. We'll use the train to get to…

RE: Where to go?
by nomadfan 18 January 2010
Five to seven days is actually plenty of time to visit the desert from Marrakesh. But I agree that if you want to see both the coast…
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Heading to Morocco? The tourism outlook.


Heading to Morocco? The tourism outlook for 2011.


When it comes to tourist hotspots, Morocco is one of the big hitters. Just a few hours’ flight away from Europe’s major cities, it plays a strong hand to city-breakers, and adventure- and sun-seekers alike. At nine million foreign visitors a year, it’s second only to Egypt as a North African holiday destination.
But Morocco isn’t immune to international events, and as North Africa and the Middle East experience the turmoil of the Arab Spring, many would-be visitors to Morocco are giving pause to wonder whether a holiday is still safe, feasible or appropriate. Admittedly, Morocco hasn’t seen the same upheavals that Tunisia or Egypt have experienced, let alone the violence in Libya,  but confidence in tourism did take a knock with a bombing in a Marrakesh café in May, which was ascribed to Islamist militants, the first such attack in the country since 2003.
Tourism accounts for around 10% of Morocco’s GDP, but taken together, the bombing and headlines from the wider region look like making 2011 a quiet year for the Moroccan tourist industry. That said, none of this should necessarily have you reaching for your guidebooks to France or Italy instead. Morocco remains a safe holiday destination, and no governmental travel warnings currently advise against travel. The flipside of dropping visitor numbers means those heading to Morocco can find themselves some great guesthouse and hotel deals.
Let’s go!
Well-served by both budget and scheduled airlines, the main entry points to Morocco are Marrakesh, Casablanca, Fès and Tangier – the latter also being an important ferry point for visitors from Spain. In the summer, head for the cooling sea breezes of Essaouira and Asilah. The latter holds a three-week art festival in July, overlapping with Marrakesh’s Festival of Popular Arts.
Best time to go
If you’re free with your travel dates, you might want to consider avoiding visiting Morocco in August. Not only is this the hottest time of the year (Marrakesh is particularly scorching), but this year it coincides with Ramadan, the Muslim month of fasting. Restaurants catering to tourists aren’t affected, but it’s hot work on the tourist trail when you can’t just pop into the first café you see for a refreshing drink.
With autumn, Morocco is once again prime travelling territory. Accommodation prices rise, but everyone’s in high spirits after Ramadan. The beaches empty and even the desert benefits from gentle breezes. Now is the time to dive into the winding streets of the Fès medina (which celebrates its founder in a huge moussem or religious festival in September) or even snag yourself a wife at Imilchil’s Berber Marriage festival.
What to see
The warm days and cool nights of autumn are also ideal for seeing the best of natural Morocco. The High Atlas Mountains are the most popular destination for trekking – most notably for those wanting to tackle Jebel Toubkal, north Africa’s highest mountain, but there are plenty of lesser known areas, such as the gorgeous Ameln Valley in the Anti-Atlas. The more heavily wooded Rif Mountains in the north also offer good hiking opportunities, and an excuse to base yourself in the blue-washed town of Chefchaouen.
Tourism in Morocco might be taking a slight knock at the current moment, but there’s still plenty on offer for those ready to make the trip.





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