marrakech medina

The people of the Medina have always ridden their motorbikes in the Medina it has always been their right to do so but if the authorities wish to encourage more and more tourists to visit the Medina,something is going to have to be done as it is becoming unbearable for older visitors and young alike. Infact shopkeepers in the Derb Debbachi and the souk Semmarine have put up no entry signs for motor cycles. More motorbike riders are now dismounting and walking with their motor bikes through crowded areas. It is a gradual process of adaption but it definitely needs to speed up.

The other aspect is one of the health: the exhaust fumes are another disincentive to visit the Medina as they linger in the streets and many Marrkechis' suffer from bronchitis and breathing conditions and the cold air from the Atlas Mountains traps the vapours so that they linger. Marrakech hasn't it seems woken up to the need for clean air

Too often now international travel writers write about the hassle of Marrakech Medina and recommend escaping to the smaller souks of Essaouira and the weekly markets outside Marrakech. The aggressive selling techniques of shop and stall owners may have suited an earlier generation when there were fewer tourists coming to Marrakech but not everyone wants to bargain and being grabbed by the arm is often a severe deterrent. It is actually impossible to look in a shop window without being assailed by the owner or his assistant in the Medina.

Marrakech's Mayor, Fatima Zahra Mansouri, has spoken of the need to preserve the rights and freedoms of the people of the Medina against the demands of the tourism industry and this is understandable but tourism is the main business of Marrakech and as has been evident over the last year, if tourists do not visit the Medina the city as a whole suffers economically. Visitors to the Medina should be allowed to walk in reasonable comfort and security.

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PUBLIC HAREM in marrakech

PUBLIC HAREM in marrakech


Riding a Moorish-Moroccan wave, young designers are modernizing Old World styles with contemporary Western touches. You’ll find many of their boutiques hidden in the Medina. Start at Original Design (231 Rue Riad Zitoun, Jedid; 212-24-38-22-76), where Ibtissam Ait Daoud sells her sleek ceramics — flying saucer ashtrays (120 dirhams), cylindrical vases (150) and volcano-shaped pitchers (120) — in tangerine, aubergine and silver hues. Owned by a French-Moroccan couple, Warda la Mouche (127 Rue Kennaria; 212-67-34-73-74) deals in prêt-à-porter, like psychedelic caftans (780), silver babouche slippers (40) and sailors’ blouses with Arabesque embroidery (320). Finally, for funky interpretations of North African housewares and fashion accessories, 

The sprawling 19th-century Bahia Palace (Rue Riad Zitoun el Jedid, Medina; 212-44-389-564) solves a design quandary that few architects today confront: How to build a house for a grand vizier’s 4 wives and 24 jealous concubines? The answer seems to be very stylishly and carefully, judging from the masterfully tiled, chiseled and carved details of the opulent palace. Admission is 10 dirhams to tour its intricate layout of rooms, gardens, courtyards and pavilions. Now a museum, the palace still periodically receives V.I.P.’s, including the hip-hop sultan Sean Combs, who flew in his entourage for a 2002 birthday bash.


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Casablanca or Marrakech!

Casablanca and Marrakech!

Call to prayer: Koutoubia Mosque at Sunset, Marrakech

Hard to imagine a more exciting day than I’ve just had: sunrise over the lights of Casablanca reflecting in the ocean as we finished our week-long crossing of the Atlantic, and sunset over the Koutoubia Mosque and the Medina in Marrakech!
Great to be back on solid earth after a week at sea (although our bodies still think we are at sea as the land “rolls” beneath us).   By 6:00 am this morning we could see the Casablanca approaching, dominated by the enormous Hassan II mosque and minaret built out over the ocean just south of the harbor. 

Hassan II Mosque, Casablanca

Casablanca Harbor at Sunrise

The night before Pat and I watched Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman in the classic “Casablanca"; very little resemblance today to that World War II port city, as Casablanca now has over 6 million people.  It is an energetic, busy modern city.







I am the “Trip Liaison” leader for a group of 37 – 32 students, 2 faculty, 2 staff, and one life-long learner for a 4-day trip south of Casablanca to Marrakech and 2 days of “trekking” between Berber villages on the edge of the Atlas Mountains.  We left the ship at 10:00 am and traveled by bus to the Casablanca train station where we headed south to Marrakech on a 4-hour ride. 

Casablanca Train Station

Passengers, Casablanca Train Station

Atlas Mountains rising from the Haouz plain

The arid countryside with the Atlas Mountains in the distance reminds me so much of my Southern California home, especially the Mojave Desert area around Lancaster bordering the San Gabriel Mountains.

Central Marketplace & Plaza, Marrakech

Spices!

We arrived in Marrakech by mid-afternoon, and after checking into our hotel in “New Town,” Pat and I walked through the Medina walls, past the Koutoubia Mosque, and into the famous maze of “souks” – covered market stalls – where it is easy to get lost in the winding alley-ways, and where one can find everything from dates, spices, and olives to Berber and Arab rugs and brilliantly-dyed fabrics and ceramics.






We had been in the market for only a short while before we were enticed into a spectacular old “riad” – traditional house built around a courtyard – that now serves as home to a women’s weaving cooperative and hundreds of spectacular carpets covering all the walls.
Our host, Mohamed, was the epitome of Moroccan hospitality, and took us all throughout the house, explaining its history.  Originally the home of a 16^th century famous university scholar, its main entry room spans three stories and is now covered in multicolored rugs.

Ceiling of Riad, Marrakech

Pat checks out Berber Rugs, Marrakech

Soon we were being served Moroccan mint tea, and the show began: Mohamed’s assistants began to bring out rug after rug (some as large as our modest Missoula home…) as he explained each weaving style, had us remove our shoes to feel the pile and weave, all the while refusing to mention anything about prices (“There will be time for that later!”).

Our host, Mohamed, with three of the Rugs we DIDN'T buy...

The longer we stayed and the more rugs we saw, the clearer it became that we were not going to be leaving without purchasing a rug (and if Mohamed had his way, several for each of us!).  We finally convinced him that the rugs he was showing us were far too large for our rooms, and we got down to small runner rugs – still beyond our price range, but getting closer.  We ended up with a beautiful red rug and a great story of our first encounter with the famous Marrakech merchants, and then we plunged further into the market. 

The Walled City: The Medina section of Marrakech at dusk

After a few hours of viewing the snake charmers, sampling fresh squeezed orange juice, and haggling over some beautiful old fossils I coveted, we made our way back to the hotel where we met the group and returned to the Medina for an amazing traditional Moroccan dinner at the Al Baraka restaurant – platter after platter of vegetables, couscous, olives, bread, and lamb & beef. 

Dinner, Al Baraka restaurant

Crescent Moon sets over the Koutoubia Mosque, Marrakech

As we left the central plaza (Djemma el Fna), it was swollen with families, couples, and friends celebrating the first Saturday evening after Ramadan, and a crescent moon hung low over the Koutoubia Mosque as firecrackers burst around us.  We finally made it back to the hotel and rest by 11 pm – a very full first day in Morocco under our belts.

After Ramadan: Saturday night in Old Marrakech

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MARKET LEADER in marrakech

MARKET LEADER in marrakech

Hard to imagine a more exciting day than I’ve just had: sunrise over the lights of Casablanca reflecting in the ocean as we finished our week-long crossing of the Atlantic, and sunset over the Koutoubia Mosque and the Medina in Marrakech!
We arrived in Marrakech by mid-afternoon, and after checking into our hotel in “New Town,” Pat and I walked through the Medina walls, past the Koutoubia Mosque, and into the famous maze of “souks” – covered market stalls – where it is easy to get lost in the winding alley-ways, and where one can find everything from dates, spices, and olives to Berber and Arab rugs and brilliantly-dyed fabrics and ceramics.
Great to be back on solid earth after a week at sea (although our bodies still think we are at sea as the land “rolls” beneath us).   By 6:00 am this morning we could see the Casablanca approaching, dominated by the enormous Hassan II mosque and minaret built out over the ocean just south of the harbor


North Africa’s most famous market, Djemaa el Fna square, explodes to life after dark. Lorded over by the illuminated minaret of the Koutoubia Mosque, oceans of revelers come out to dine at sizzling food stalls and soak up the carnivalesque atmosphere conjured by monkey handlers, cobra charmers, drummers, acrobats, musicians, soapbox preachers and folk-medicine hawkers. If you can handle more dessert, visit the spice-cake dealers (40 dirhams a slice) and wash it down with a glass of fresh-squeezed orange juice (a mere 3 dirhams) from one of the myriad fruit carts.

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PALACE FOR YOUR PALATE in marrakech

PALACE FOR YOUR PALATE in marrakech 

There are very few restaurants in Seattle that I would classify as "special event" restaurants, because either their staff is too stuck up and yuppie or their atmosphere is too stuffy for my taste - however this is one of the few I can say meets my standards for a place to take someone for a special evening.

Our special evening? My in-laws birthdays. I was aware of the popularity of Marrakesh, so we had reservations ahead of time, thankfully. There is a 3 foot by 4 foot waiting area - which means most people wait outside. That would be my only complaint, because in the dead of winter - its not a fun wait.

The restaurant is decorated fabulously - with rugs, scarves, fabric, covering every wall, floor and ceiling - and then small tables, pillows and stools for eating. The lights are low and the ambiance finished off perfectly with Moroccan music and dancing. 



We decided to get the Royale Feast Dinner - which is for 4 people or more. It is a 5 course meal that includes one of each special on the menu. 

Our waitress first came with a bowl to wash all of our hands. It was warm water and such a nice thing to do before we all eat. 



The first course the traditional lentil soup. SO savory, just the right temperature to sip from the bowls. Then the waitress brought a huge woven basket of sliced bread and told us to take some. Great homemade bread, complimented the soup perfectly. Before we had a chance to finish our soup, the second course - Moroccan salad came. It consisted of a hummus-like paste as well as a vegi medly that was almost like a greek salad, but better (no olives). We ended up eating them all together, and felt as though that could have been our dinner. 



The third course was easily the most INTERESTING dish I have ever eaten. I have lived in Africa, Greece, and have eaten tons of different foods, but this by far can be labeled the most yummy and interesting. It was called B'stilla Royale and basically its a light crispy filo dough, filled with a ground meat and onion mixture and topped with powdered sugar and cinnamon. Something about the mixture makes it delectable. 



At this point we found ourselves comfortable but salivating at the mere thought of the next course and what they had next to surprise us with.

The 4th course was the MAIN course. And because we chose the Royale Feast. That is what we got. Each dish was savory in its own way. We got 3 chicken, one Couscous dish, and a lamb and a beef dish. We passed the dishes around the table, each taking bites from each dish. Its exactly what you WISH you could do at restaurants, try a bit of everything.



During the dinner course, the music got louder and the belly/sword dancer came out. She was a beautiful dancer who played with the patrons and invited a few people to dance with her. I often find side shows like this embarrassing and awkward, however she was so at ease and friendly, it was really entertaining.



With dinner done, low lights, comfortable pillows, we really could have taken a nap at this point, but the waitress came again - to wash our hands. After washing them - she sprinkled all of our hands with Rose Water - to prepare us for dessert. 

Our 5th course was served in tiny bowls. It was a small chopped apple, pear and banana salad that was mixed with their juices and a bit of brown sugar. It was VERY refreshing and wonderful after such a big filling meal. Our waitress then came with 5 glasses and asked us to sit back a bit, in case of splash over. Confused we sat back - and she then started to poor the hot, fragrant, sweetened mint tea - from ABOVE our heads! She kept moving up until she was pouring from as high as her arms could reach standing (and we were on the floor). The tea was more than tasty and a PERFECT way to end an amazing dinner.







Unlike the "group meal" like we recently got at the Italian Maggianno's that I reviewed saying we paid WAY too much for what we got - this on the other hand was $20 per person (FLAT, no additions) and we got MORE than expected and were pleasantly surprised.

Rating: ***** Excellent food, service and ambiance. It is a great place to take out of town guests, to celebrate an anniversary or for a special occasion.
Whether you’re proposing to your partner, celebrating an anniversary or pleading forgiveness for an affair — or if you’re just plain starved — everything is romantically presented and expertly cooked in the sumptuously Moorish interiors of Le Tobsil (22 Derb Moulay Abdallah Ben Hezzian; 212-24-44-40-52). The menu, which changes daily, typically includes cold Moroccan tapaslike salads, savory-sweet tagines and couscous with stewed meats and vegetables. A fruit-heavy dessert and glass of sweet mint tea provide the coda. Dinner for two is fixed at 1,200 dirhams, and includes wine. Reservations essential.


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LUNCH AMONG THE RUINS in marrakech

 LUNCH AMONG THE RUINS in marrakech
The perfect place to have lunch in Marrakech



Next to the former Jewish quarter and overlooking the time-worn walls of 16th-century El Badi Palace, the terrace of KosyBar (47 Place des Ferblantiers, Medina; 212-24-38-03-24) is a chic perch for a noontime bite. Settle into the deep couches, absorb the jazz-soul soundtrack and contemplate the menu of sushi, sashimi and various Euro-Oriental fusion dishes. Chilled carrot soup with ginger and cumin (50 dirhams) cuts the heat like a North African answer to gazpacho, while goat cheese ravioli (80 dirhams) adds Continental flair.

We did not sleep here as we definitely wanted to stay in a hotel in the medina during our first trip to Marrakech. However we did come here for lunch, and as I cannot find a separate heading for the Beldi’s restaurant, I am posting this here. This restaurant is a real find, and from conversations we had with ex-pats who were also having lunch at the Beldi, something unique on the Marrakech landscape. You need a taxi to get here, as it is approx 15 minutes outside the city.
To get to the restaurant you walk through a huge rose garden, much more than a garden as it’s a large field planted with what must be thousands of rose bushes. The restaurant has a real postcard setting, overlooking the roses, with the snow-capped Atlas Mountains in the background. Just beautiful! There is a prix fix menu (350 dirhams per person if I remember correctly) which seemed very reasonable for the quality of the lunch. I had grilled sardines and the quail as a main dish, and both were perfectly cooked. The atmosphere here is very relaxed chic, yet the service is professional and attentive. I would highly recommend the Beldi to anyone who is looking for an original and relaxing place to have a delicious lunch outside the city.



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OLD MEDINA in marrakech

OLD MEDINA in marrakech

For full immersion into Marrakesh’s sights, sounds and smells, dive into the twisted passages of the Medina, the city’s old quarter. Head up Rue Souk Semarine, and you’ll pass veiled women, clambering mule carts, and narrow passages with stalls selling all manner of hand-spun textiles, inlaid mirrors, brass lanterns, wooden chests, fragrant leather goods, ceramic vases and enough carpets to pad the Alaskan wilderness. Haggling is essential. So is your poker face: feign indifference, affect a cool exterior and occasionally exaggerate outrage at counteroffers. Finish at the Ben Youssef Medersa, a 16th-century Koran school adorned with dazzling mosaics, intricate cedar panels and religious verses carved in white plaster. (No phone or Web site, and the location can be tricky to find, but it is right next to the Musée de Marrakech on Place Ben Youssef. Admission is 40 dirhams, or about $5 at 7.95 dirhams to the dollar.)


As you will see when you are travelling around Morocco and including the streets of Marrakech, as modern and europeanised it looks, especially when you compare with say another North Africa country as Tunisia where i hardly saw any donkeys!, donkeys and mules are used in a big way in the everyday lives of the locals.

In and around the medina you will see many donkeys in use - ie the old town centre of Marrakech - especially with the old narrow and winding streets that the small but hardy and strong donkeys seemed ideally matched for.

I really have a thing for donkeys! - cute and photogenic - certainly adds to the character of our visits to the culture here and to the look we get to see of local life in the medina.

For the local trying to eke out a living the donkey still has the advantage too of being much easier to look after and with less running costs than the modern vehicular replacements!

As has been a common complaint in the past it still can be a problem of these animals, as with the horses pulling the caleches, not being looked after as appreciatedly as they deserve.
Though a major appeal or advantage of the donkey is that they are strong and have great endurance and are able to carry loads much heavier than their own body weight it can be distressing to see situations of donkeys being seen with loads that are obviously above what they should be enduring ie trailers or carts with huge wheel bases on them! along with the load in the trailer and then maybe two passengers!

Apparently in the UK there is a law now that limits the weight that a donkey can carry as being 52kg! that is only a small adult maximum!

There is the AMAZING!! organisation Spana (www.spana.org.ma or in the UK www.spana.org) founded in 1959 by a British woman and her daughter with projects in many countries - check out their websites and see if you can resist not feeling the urge or need to donate!! - with not only the advantage of providing care or haven, such as animal hospitals including mobile hospitals in the souks, for abused animals but also to educate donkey, mule and horse owners of acceptable care of their animals and work resources - and it is pointed out that their aim is not only to help donkeys but by helping to look after the animals that so many families rely on it is also helping the families living conditions.

If you witness any problems with donkeys, mules or horses you can contact the police or the Centre Hospitalier pour Animaux in Marrakech. You can also contact Spana and visit their centre to see what they do and perhaps get involved with support.


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