Mark Ellingham, the founder of Rough Guides, enjoys mint tea and pigeon pie in a medieval labyrinth.
Why Fes?
Fes is the most complete medieval city of the Arab world. It is not chic and glamorous, like Marrakesh has become. But it is a place that stimulates your senses like no other, with haunting and beautiful sounds, infinite visual details and unfiltered odours. More than any city I know, it seems somehow suspended in time between the Middle Ages and the modern world.
What is the first thing you do when you return?
Get lost. Literally. Fes el Bali - "Fes the Old" - is an unmappable labyrinth of alleys, souks and cul-de-sacs. You have to develop an entirely new way to orientate yourself, which is a lot of fun, especially when you begin to get it right. But wandering at random, not quite knowing where you are and stumbling on some new treasure - a glimpse of a 13th-century courtyard, perhaps - is part of the pleasure.
When is the best time to visit?
If you're interested in music, then try to coincide with the remarkable Festival of Sacred Music, which is held every June (until next Sunday this year). It is a beacon of cultural liberalism, putting on concerts of Moroccan Sufi music, alongside performers such as Ravi Shankar and Youssou n'Dour, or American gospel performers. Some concerts are free, others take place in intimate courtyards.
Where is the best place to stay?
If money is no object, then the Palais Jamai (00212 35 634331;www.sofitel.com; from £155), an old vizier's palace, which is the principal setting for my favourite Paul Bowles novel, The Spider's House. The old wing is fabulous, but even in the modern rooms, you have fantastic views, looking right across the old city, and you are woken by the ethereal sound of its myriad muezzin calls. A much cheaper option, right in the heart of Fes el Bali, is the Dar Seffarine (71 113528;www.darseffarine.com; from £47), a riad whose traditional zellij tilework is paired with minimalist design. Its palatial Koba suite is a knockout.
Where would you send a first-time visitor?
The Bab Boujeloud - a landmark gate to Fes el Bali - and walking down to the Bou Inania Medersa, a medieval college building of astounding craftwork. Sit in the courtyard there for a while, then find your way past the great Kairaouine Mosque (above right, no non-Muslims allowed) and on to the Attarin Medersa. If possible, go up on to the roof for a great view of the Medina. Then take a walk through the dyers' souk, hung with brilliant-coloured skeins of wool.
Where would you meet friends for a drink?
In Fes el Bali, drink means mint tea - you'll see huge bundles of mint being carried on mules through the alleys. A good place to stop for a glass would be one of the cafés in the Souk el Attarin, the spice market, or the Souk el Henna, where herbalists still prepare magical potions.
Which are your favourite places for lunch?
There is great street food in Fes. I like nothing better than a freshly baked slice of pastilla (pigeon pie) from one of the vendors around the Bab Boujeloud.
And for dinner? The Fassia restaurant (634331) at the Hotel Palais Jamai is a beautiful salon, with a fabulous terrace overlooking Fes el Bali. It does all the classic Moroccan dishes - pastilla, couscous, tajine, mechoui (roast lamb) - to perfection. Book ahead.
Where would you send a first-time visitor?
To the Merenid tombs, to gaze down on Fes el Bali and pick out the minarets of the city's 365 mosques. The perfect time to visit is at dawn, or early evening - when you can witness the evening roost. The sky swarms with thousands of swifts, returning to their nests in the old city walls.
What would you tell them to avoid?
The tanneries, with their medieval vats filled with urine (and modern chemicals) for treating leather, are not for everyone.
Public transport or taxi?
In Fes el Bali you have just one option: your own feet. But you can get taxis from the gates at either end of the Medina.
Handbag or moneybelt?
A bit of bag-snatching goes on, but Fes isn't a dangerous city.
What should I take home?
Fes's souks are top quality, though you'll need to know your stuff to buy a decent-priced carpet. Still, it's fun to shop for cheaper items, like woven cushion covers and rugs, or the bright yellow leather babouches, or slippers.
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